exploring, etc: October 2009

Patrick Winterton

14:39

Patrick Winterton and Mick Berwick

There are those who say that all the great challenges have been done and all that is left now are obscure adventures in obscure places. Earlier this year Patrick Winterton and his friend Mick Berwick became the first people ever to sea kayak to the Faroe Islands from Scotland. This astonishing and inspirational sea voyage confirms that significant adventures are still up for grabs, even locally. The crossing fitted into a longer journey Patrick made from Wales and via south-west Ireland. Patrick and Mick used their trip to raise money for the RNLI and you can donate on their Justgiving page. I asked Patrick a few questions and here are his replies.

I gather that your journey was inspired by a route taken by Irish monks. Can you tell me how you came across their story and what it was that inspired you to attempt it in sea kayaks.
I think it is fair to say that the expedition was inspired by Dan and Karen Trotter who attempted the crossing in 1995. They failed by a mere 80km before climbing aboard their support vessel. We have debated the possibility of doing it unsupported since then. I read around the subject of links between UK/Ireland and the Faroes and came across St Brendan and hence the plan to follow his route from SW Ireland to the North.

How many days did you spend at sea on the crossing to the Faroes? Did you get much sleep?
The 360 km crossing itself from North Rona to Suduroy took just over 74 hours and we spent 3 nights at sea. Clocking up 5 hours sleep in total. the last 36 hours was non stop due to incoming northerly winds. We designed a kayak tent that could cope with force 4+ and is just like an emergency shelter. Would put this up every time we stopped and made a huge difference to temperature. Neither of us got cold at any stage. The weather was very calm for the first 4o hours, so calm that we heard an saw whales and dolphins a long time before we saw them. (Finn whales and minkhe). Despite their size these creatures have a calming effect and give a massive boost to the paddling.

How hard was the physical aspect of the crossing? Did you do any specific training? How well did you and Mick Berwick get along? How did you resolve disagreements?
Physically we were fine apart from sores around our hips and backsides. Mick and I had both clocked up 1000's of km's in preparation. We also did some big crossings/night crossings/ 24 hour max dist sessions to prepare. We benefited massively from all the mistakes we made along the way. Fatigue was a major problem but increasing winds and an urgent push to beat the weather showed what a wonder drug adrenaline is. Mick and I had fairly distinct roles on the crossing. He monitored progress, called the stops, I did the comms and made tactical/route decisions. We both shared the lead which caused a few problems as our compasses never agreed. 1-2 degrees makes a big difference over 20 mins. We paddled at pretty much the same speed and had no irritations on that front. Mick has 2 bad ears and never heard anything first time. I got over this frustration by insulting him first and when he said 'what' I'd ask the question. We get on best when times are hard and both seem to be very positive when it is looking marginal.

Can you recommend a journey in Scotland for someone new to sea kayaking? What was your first sea kayaking experience and how old were you?
I lived in Norway when young and was let lose at the age of eleven to paddle solo around the fjords. managed to pick up 6 sea kayaks from Raleigh International when I moved to Scotland in 1994 and started with a circumnavigation of Jura, an eyeopener of a trip with sound of Islay and Corryvrecken, which I still rate as one of Scotland's best. I go for the remotest parts and nothing can beat Mingulay for a long weekend or North Rona. Part of the attraction is that you can't guarantee to get there. For a first time trip it is as much about choosing the weather as the location. Avoid areas exposed to the Atlantic and those with big tide races, Island of Bute, Lismore or Summer Isles.

What type of food do you like to eat on your kayak trips? Do you have a favourite camp stove recipe?
Food is all about weight on a long trip. Spaghetti fits nicely into the bow, dried soups and dehydrated meals weigh nothing and even taste good after a long day out. If on a weekend paddle the emphasis is on catching/finding food. Scallops with wine take some beating.

What are the things you look for when choosing a campsite on kayak tours?
I generally go for solitude when choosing a site. Somewhere where I can play my whistle without being heard. A view from the tent door is also essential, I'd rather haul the boat up a steep rock than drag it miles up a beach and try and ensure there is a handy alternative for launching again in case the wind changes.

What is your favourite travel or adventure book? Which explorers and adventurers have inspired you?
The stories of Douglas Mawson's survival in Antarctica are a lesson for all and worth remembering when things get unpleasant. I envy and admire early explorers who had places to discover, in particular John Rae who discovered the north west passage.

What is the most extreme weather you've experienced? How did you cope?
Mick and I have been out in force 7/8 without too much trouble but very slow, or rapid, progress depending on direction. Tide races such as Rhinns of Islay can become unmanageable in force 5/6 as we discovered last month. It is essential that you are fitted to a boat and have secure spraydecks if you are to survive extreme conditions.

What are your plans and ambitions for the future?
Mick wants to continue to Iceland. I'm keen to combine skiing and paddling as well as exploring the Faroes. We meet this week to decide.

If you enjoyed reading this (and I know I certainly did) you might be interested in some of the other interviews I have done recently.

Richie Cunningham ~ Ultra runner extraordinaire.

Russ Haines ~ Dirtbagger.

Randy Fay ~ Hobobiker and webmaster of warmshowers.org.
Alan Kimber ~ Expert mountian guide explains snow holes.

CHEAP SLEEP

Sleep in a Snow Hole

14:08

Winter will be upon us soon and with it the season for winter climbing and walking. I asked Alan Kimber, of West Coast Mountain Guides, to explain how to go about sleeping in a snow hole.

Can you explain why mountaineers would use snow holes when climbing as opposed to using a tent or a bivvy bag?
More shelter from the wind.

Is building a snow hole an advisable way to shelter for the night in Scotland's hills in winter?
Yes, but depends on situation and location and conditions.

For the first time snow holer what advice would you give?
Find a snow bank not too far from alternative shelter and practice first. If something goes wrong it should be easy enough to travel downhill, straight to safety.

What equipment is it necessary to take with especially?
A good shovel – snow saw - sleeping bag – insulated sleeping mat – stove – food – All the usual hill survival gear and warm clothing.

What considerations are there to choosing a good spot? Where has been your favourite location?
Try to avoid anything in a gully line where avalanches may slide through. Avoid anything with water running beneath. Difficult to be precise with a favourite spot. It will depend largely on the conditions at the time.

What temperature rating does my sleeping bag need to stay warm?
Four Season.

Won't my expensive down sleeping bag get wet?
Possibly. Cover it with a gore-tex bivvy sack.

What are the drawbacks and dangers of sleeping in snow holes?
Suffocation (make sure you have a ventilation hole). Collapse and damp in thaw conditions. They take a lot of effort to construct compared to using a bothy or pitching a tent.

What are the benefits?
Well constructed in good dry and cold conditions they are bombproof, even in a gale of wind, where a tent might be destroyed. They are also much quieter than a tent in windy weather.

In your opinion what is the greatest winter climb in Scotland?
No comment. There are too many to choose from.

Which mountaineer has inspired you?
Riccardo Cassin – Walter Bonatti.

Can you me the most important tips for winter mountaineering.
Be very good at navigation – Use the correct clothing, ice axe and crampons – Understand avalanche hazards and how to avoid them – Take your time to understand and be able to match the challenges of the winter hills to your own ability and experience.

More information is available in this article: www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/outdoors/articles/snowholing/

I've mentioned other ways to sleep out in the hills before as part of my CHEAP SLEEP series. You could opt for a bothy, tent or bivvy bag.

CHEAP SLEEP

Warm Showers

10:33

My experience of using hospitality websites, both hosting and visiting, has been great. I love the randomness of turning up in a stranger's home (and in their life), and it was remarkably good fun to have people stay (and very little effort). Following on from the previous post I wrote about this kind of thing, I got in touch with Randy Fay - the webmaster for the warmshowers.org website. Randy and Nancy have just returned to the USA from a bike tour from the top of Canada to the bottom of South America. Read about their trip on their website http://www.hobobiker.com/. A map of where potential hosts live can be found here. I asked Randy a few questions about Warmshowers.

I am a big fan of sites like your own, globalfreeloaders, couchsurfing and hospitality club. Can you briefly explain how your site works for people who have never used it?
It's really much like all the other hospitality networks. You sign up and then you can search for hospitality or other support using several different search facilities, including a map that locates hosts. Warmshowers.org is a *reciprocal* hospitality network, so you're saying at least "I will host someday" when you sign up. Many members on extended trips or at different points in their lives can't offer hospitality, but in the long term they will.

There is the obvious financial benefit of not having to pay for accommodation but could you describe some of the other benefits to cyclists?
In my experience, it's not really the financial benefits that are as important as the social benefits. You get to meet fantastic and interesting people from all over the world, and share an evening or two with them. Sometimes and some places it's cheaper to camp or get a hotel than it is to stay with a host (and bring some beer, and fix dinner, etc.). But the benefits of meeting somebody local and getting their perspective is amazing.

Are there any drawbacks, problems or dangers? What are you doing to counter these?
It can be a bit of work to spend the whole evening socializing :-) Sometimes it's exhausting, although so valuable.We haven't had any reports of security issues, although we've had a couple of annoying or odd members. There's a writeup on personal security at http://www.warmshowers.org/content/member-security

What are your top 5 countries for cycle touring?
Probably Colombia, Mexico, Peru, Guatemala, Canada. Ask most Europeans and they'll tell you the US is a fabulous place to cycle-tour, with enormously friendly and interested people.

What tips would you give cyclists new to touring?
Start out slowly and build up slowly. You can go a long ways a little at a time. Remember that cycle touring is not an athletic event, it's a way to travel and really know the country you're traveling through.

What, would you say, are the best aspects of hosting?
Getting to know all those wonderful and interesting people.

Check out some of my other CHEAP SLEEP posts.
Bothy ~ Scottish shelters that welcome weary walkers.

Tent ~ The ultimate tool for sleeping free.
Car ~ For those too lazy to put their tent up.
Bivvy ~ Soggy misery keeps you lightweight.
Couch ~ Make friends with the Internet.
Airport ~ The largest en-suite bedroom you'll ever stay in (complete with coffee shop).

Van ~ Dirtbagger Russ tells us how its done.

Mothers' Union

Charity

14:21

The main reason why I'm heading off on this trip is because I want to. It is also important for me that, on the trip, I can act as a cheerleader for music and cycling.

I also hope that I can raise a bit of money for an organisation called the Mother's Union. I will try to explain why.

I’m a big believer that charity starts at home. Think globally, act locally. One of the best practitioners of this principle is my mother, Alison Hubbard. My mum has spent a life time caring for people through nursing, mothering and volunteering. She became a member of the Mothers' Union when my family moved to Hambledon in the early 1980s and has been actively involved in their community work projects ever since.

Like all the best ideas, the Mothers' Union is deceptively simple. It is a worldwide network of volunteers who are united in their commitment to supporting marriage and family life. But they don’t just sit around chatting and drinking tea. Oh no. Instead, they are involved in many projects in their local communities. These include running small scale farming initiatives in Uganda, lobbying for political change, and setting up family support groups in prisons around the UK. In fact my Mum has become quite a regular visitor to her local prison, but one of her most passionate projects has been the Away From It All holiday scheme.

AFIA, as it is known, is another simple idea: give a holiday to people under stress. I first became aware of its existence when Mum asked me to come along and help for the week. My help, such as it was, pretty much went as far as making sand castles and playing games with the kids. Slowly it dawned on me that the mother of these kids probably hadn't had any time to herself since her children where born, and how revitalising such a simple holiday was for her. I learned that disadvantaged families are often isolated and ignored. An AFIA holiday acts as a chance to get to meet other people in the same boat, often out in the smoking area. Having a friend on the end of a phone can really help. Fundraising and organising the week long holiday is a year long commitment, but a thoroughly rewarding one, undertaken by volunteers like my Mum.

Be under no illusions. Every penny of the money raised by the Mothers' Union is well spent.

Here is the link to the Just Giving donations page.

CHEAP SLEEP

Russ Haines Interview: Tips for Living in a Van

08:07

Sign Post

20:00

caac

Hodgo

15:56

CYCLE IDEAS

Dublin to Belfast & Even More Cycling Weekend Ideas!

16:45

Forgot to take my camera

After quite an intense training run in the Pentlands on Saturday, in preparation for the Hodgo this weekend, I whooshed over on the ferry and train to visit Ray. So speedy was the journey that I arrived in time for Sunday dinner (a delicious Mexican treat, thanks Breda!). After dinner, Ray and I headed into Dublin for a few jars. We arrived back at his flat in the small hours and continued resolving all the worlds problems. Then I had a very comfy sleep on an inflatable bed in the lounge.

I pedalled off on the bike in the morning, as Ray walked to work, with a steadily worsening headache. I followed the N1 to Swords, Balgriggan, Drogheda and Dundalk, along relatively uninspiring A-roads, with every lamppost bedecked with Yes or No posters for the upcoming referendum on Europe. Then I went in search of a ferry, cycling around some delightful hills south of Carlingford and beside Carlingford Lough. I didn't manage to find a ferry across the lough (and so missed out on the Mourne Mountains which looked great across the water). Instead I headed towards Newry and on the way found a windy picnic area where I put on all my clothes, cooked up some rice and veg, and once it got dark slithered into my sleeping bag and slept.

Newry turns out to be quite a big town and I managed to score a cooked breakfast in a greasy spoon and use up the last of my Euros (despite being back in Northern Ireland). Also it is the start of the Newry Canal Path, which in turn is part of the terrific NCN9 which I followed all the way to Belfast. In Belfast, a quick look at the time revealed I was not going to catch my ferry unless I sped up a bit. I achieved this (with a little help from NI Railways) and tucked in to a fish and chips supper on the ferry, washed down with a bottle of Grolsh and Charlies Angels in the video room.

Even More Cycling Weekend Ideas (especially good for encroaching winter)

1. Giant's Causeway
I was keen to visit Ray in Dublin, but from a cycling point of view I think riding out to the Giant's Causeway would make a better weekend trip. You could follow the coast on the way out and return via Randalstown, Lough Neagh and Belfast.

2. Loch Katerine
A beautiful spot ideal for a day trip (perhaps get the paddle steamer on the way out then cycle back) or a longer outing. Maybe a good trip could be to start in Callendar and follow NCN7 to Brig O'Turk, cycle around the loch and off past Stronachlachar and along Loch Arklet to Loch Lomond. Most bikes should be ok (tourers and MTBs but racers might struggle) to cycle along the West Highland Way up to Crainlarich. Then a section on the dreaded A82 (or you could attempt to use the dismantled railway) to rejoin the NCN7 at Glen Ogle and follow it back to Callendar. Previous Post.

3. Loch Lubnaig
If you fancy a short and sweet day trip, a nice section of NCN7 is alongside Loch Lubnaig between Callendar and Strathyre. Callendar is quite an easy place to spend time and money eating in cafes and browsing shops. Strathyre has a more streamlined set of amenities but at a push one of the pubs will knock you up a bowl of soup. Previous Post.

4. Aberfeldy and Loch Tay
This was a fun weekend tour. I headed up the A823 through Dunfermline, past Knockhill and then past Creiff and the pretty Sma Glen. There is a land rover track from Newton Bridge that looks a bit tasty (NN873318) that will land you up on the south side of Loch Tay. Also, I have it on a reliable authority (Nick) that the road up through Glen Quiach is offers great scenery, but involves quite a climb. I opted to continue along the A826 to Aberfeldy which was fairly dull. There are campsites, hostels, bunkhouses and B&Bs in Aberfeldy but if its the weekend of the Highland Games book in advance or you might end up at a stag-do.
The NCN7 can be followed along the south side of Loch Tay (a lovely bit of road) and then past Killin and back to the central belt via Callendar. If your heading back into Edinburgh either follow one or other of the Round-the-Forth routes (NCN76 they are south and north of the Forth) or get the train back from Stirling. Quite long days of cycling so you may prefer to string this out over three days. Previous Post.

5. Union Canal
Get the train to Glasgow and cycle home along the Union canal. This is manageable in a summers day but after autumn it would be worth having lights. We gave up at Linlithgow and got the train home when I did this last winter on a very miserable and wet day, dark and wet trumps cycling bliss for some. There are a few pubs, and the Falkirk Wheel, along the way to cheer you up. Another option would be to cycle out on NCN75 via Bathgate and Airdrie and stay the night with a friend in Glasgow or in a hostel.

Check out more cycling ideas here and here.

Goodbye Scotland

Patrick Winterton

Sleep in a Snow Hole

Warm Showers

Charity

Russ Haines Interview: Tips for Living in a Van

Sign Post

Hodgo

Dublin to Belfast & Even More Cycling Weekend Ideas!

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