Thanks everyone for the birthday messages. I had a lovely time at a mountain Refuggio quaffing wine, spining yarns, eating cottage pie with egg and cheese and sleeping like a log in my tent despite 70mph winds. The next morning I poked my head out of the flap at sunrise to see a reddish glow on the torres before going back to sleep with a hangover. I´ve now hiked most of the W route and am now considering making it into a loop. Cuernas and Torres were spectacular, tomorrow I hike up to the Grey Glacier. Loads of cool people on the trail. Brits, Yanks, Israilis, French, Belgium, Spanish, Swedish to name but a few. Good for company and conversation.
Route from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine national park was a bit windy and a gravel road most of the way. Met a switz guy who cycled from Alaska at a cafe in Cero Castillo.
Bad news is my camera screen broke and I now have no idea what will happen. Nevertheless, I still take photos blindly and hope for the best. I think I will buy on in Calafate as a birthday pressie.
Also, sorry to anyone who got a spam e-mail. Don´t know what that is about.