Doggy Defence

Iritatingly, a dog has bitten a hole in one of my rear panniers. I have had to fix it up with the last of my duct tape, but it won't be so watertight now. It could have been worse. The delightful hound could have bitten my leg. So. Now I feel I need a weapon against "man's best friend". But which? This has been a favourite topic amoung cyclists so here are the options I've heard.

1. Squirt dog with water from your water bottle.

2. Hit it with pump, length of bamboo, truncheon, or bit of metal. (I'm keeping my eyes peeled for something suitable.)

3. Whip it with a horse whip or an old inner-tube.

4. Hit it with a machete (I know two cyclists who carry these). Perhaps more effective at getting the owner to control it, fearing the crazed gringo waving a machete around.

5. Shoot it with an air-gun, or a gun that fires plastic ball bearings (or an Uzi for all I care!!)

6. Mace it.

7. Zap it with a cattle-prod or a tazer.

8. Buy a Dog Dazer. A battery powered devise that emits a high-pitched sound that they don't like.

9. Throw rocks. I do this already. It's what the locals do so quite a good strategy. Sadly I don't have anywhere very good to store the stones and there isn't always time to pick some up.

10. Use physcology. Shout at it (suprisingly effective, especially if you use Spanish). For example "a tu casa!" Aim straight for it (dogs only attack from behind). Get off the bike (then it will recognise you as a human rather than a bike).

11. Ride the adrenaline rush and try and out run it. Not always possible.

Do you know something that works better?

Tortel to Cochrane

At Tortel I loaded up on supplies. This involved knocking politely on what looked just like someones house, only I had spied shelves of food through the window, and then asking in my finest spanish for oats, chocolate and one of each flavour of biscuits. To get bread I had to go to another house and knock on the window. The woman inside delved into a huge sack and brought out 6 homemade rolls for 10p each.

Biscuits and chocolate have a short shelf-life in my panniers and were, of course, devoured before the end of the day. As is the usual fashion hereabouts the road was in a dire pot-holed, washboarded, gravely and hilly state and there was a head wind. Nevertheless the sun shone all day and as the light faded I found a nice spot off the road and under some trees to pitch the tent with a mountain veiw and a river nearby.

The next day I set off hoping to make it to Cochrane and when I passed a lovely cycling couple from Belgium they confirmed it was 65kms so I had a sporting chance of getting there before nightfall. Being about the time of day we decided to retire to the dining room for lunchoen together. By which I mean we sat on the dirt and ate cheese sandwiches.

After a good chat and feed I hit the road again but changed my plan when, 15kms outside Cochrane, I chanced upon Lago Ezmeralda. It was a beautiful spot so I decided to camp there and save a nights camping fee in Cochrane.

Cochrane is a little bigger than Villa O'Higgins, the internet a fraction faster, and it has a nice feel about it. There is a supermarket which is ideal if you need to pop out and pick up some cereal, milk, an outboard motor, a chainsaw and some plastic toys. Truely everything you might ever need is on sale.

Brett arrived and we bought some steaks to bbq. Also, led astray, I bought some lavadura and some strawberry juice with which I intend to concoct a "special" christmas vino. Wish me luck!

Chalten to Caleta Tortel

I have been through quite a bit since I last posted but not come across a decent internet connection. Incredibly, it seems to be quite good in this tiny village, Caleta Tortel, in a seaside cove, made entirely of wooden houses with boardwalks and wooden staircases connecting them. extrodinary. Its been tough going getting here. From Chalten to Lago Desierto was a nice enough gravel track and on the way I met up with a South African guy called Bret who likes to eat and drink. After getting the ferry across Lago Desierto we camped with a Switz guy called Michael. The next day was a grueling one. If you wanted you could hire a horse for US$30 but us Hubbards are made of sterner stuff. The bike had to be pushed up steep and deeply rutted horse tracks for 10km before coming down a heavily potholed and steep gravel track.

The campsite was stunning, looking out over the turquoise waters of Lago O'Higgins and the surrounding mountains. We spent a day looking at it, reading books and tinkering with bikes while we waited for the ferry to turn up. The 4pm ferry arrived at 8pm and took us across Lago O'Higgins (bit Irish sounding,eh?). By the time we got to the other side, after watching a great sunset, it was dark and the 7km in to Villa O'Higgins had to be made by head torch.

I decided to get going after stocking up on supplies in VOH. Not many shops open as it was a Sunday and election weekend, and I couldn't face another day sat around scratching my bum. It was good to get moving on the bike, but hard work. The gravel road here is tough going with many potholes and washboard tracks, not to mention the hills and winds (they're normal now!). Scenery is stunning to the point that there is no need to listen to ipod, or even think much, you just look around and soak it all in.

El Calafate to El Chalten

After listening to a folk band in the campsite bar, and sampling (yet more) litres of Quilmes, our trusty pedal-powered hero woke fairly late and drank several cups of coffee and ate lots of toast and alfajor (yummy chocolate/ducle leche things). He then spent what seemed like an eternity trying to reorganise his panniers to be a) more convienient for commonly used items and b) with more weight at the front of the bike (who shall henceforth be known as Foxy Lady). Neither of these objectives were achieved and so the mission was abandoned in favour of cycling.
Weather was nice but reasonably windy. Lunch was ducle de leche and bananas on crackers and some turron.

Soon after Lago Argentina had slid behind a hill I came across a house in the middle of knowhere with "Bar" written on it. I headed in chased my barking dogs and it turned out to be a campsite too. So I gave in and ordered some food. On asking what he had on offer I was offered some piddling sandwiches and cakes, and then he offered a plate of beef steak. My eyes lit up and no more communication was required. Then dead cow was served with grated carrot and tomato and washed down by a black beer called Antares.

The next day was the sunniest and least windy day I have had yet so much so that my jacket stayed off all day and my arms got a touch of sunburn. I put in 120km to reach El Chalten just as it was getting dark. The whole day I was heading closer and closer to the mind boggling peaks of Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. I installed myself at the campsite and got a pizza. Disappointment ensued as I was unable to manage the entire pizza. The first time such a fate has befallen me. I think my stomach is getting smaller. Either that or it is the enormous quantity of cheese they use here.

Today the weather is much the same: balmy. I walked up to the Laguna Torre which is an excellent viewpoint for Cerro Torre, a crazily steep and magestic tower. I wore shorts (but long sleeves because of sun burned arms) and carried a very light pack with water, biscuits and not much else. Quite a relaxing walk through delightful countryside. I may have to stay here some time as my timing for the ferry to Villa O´Higgins is a little muddled. In fact I still can´t work out if it goes on Fridays or Saturdays such is the quality of the infomation. Well, tomorrow I plan to hike to the Mount Fitz Roy viewpoint and then we´ll see. If I miss the Friday/Saturday ferry there is one on Tuesday (or maybe its Wednesday). All a little confusing.

Raphael and Bettina

Met a great cycling couple from Switzerland at the campsite. They have cycled from Ecuador and were kind enough to answer some of my daft questions. Here is a mini interview with them I recorded. Listen to find out a great tip to get more from your cycling tour and to find out how fast dogs run.




Also I spent the day checking out the amazing Perito Moreno Glacier.

Torres del Paine to El Calafate

Took a rest day at Hosteria des Torres campsite which consisted of reading, eating and composing hillarious poems. Then built giant bonfire to cook my pasta with peas and salami and warm my weary body.

Yesterday I took to the road on my bike again and it feels good. There was a section of gravel road that was the worst yet but I had a tailwind so pressed on racking up a good 120kms or so. Then when I was packing up my tent this morning a guacho (kind of a cowboy) rode up to have a chinwag and stare into the distance looking menacing. I patted his horse which look round and stared at me as if to say, "Do I look like the kind of horse who gets patted. Do me a favour..."

Then I breakfasted on crackers and peanut butter and rode 100kms into a head wind. On the way I got back to the paved road, finished all the crackers and ran out of water. I then had to try out the "Dave Technique" taught to me by the guy I met cycling the other way.

Step 1: Stand by side of the road with an empty water bottle and point to it.
Step 2: Hope someone stops.
Step 3: Repeat Steps 1 and 2 as necessary.

It worked pretty well. I got 300ml the first car and then as I was cycling along later someone rolled down the window and threw a 1 litre bottle at me. I think they´d been phoned up by the first car. How cool is that. Now I have a "support team".

Things went steadily up hill (literally) with the headwind continuing, and then steadily downhill (in both respects). My back tyre has seen better days and gave me another puncture. I patched the puncture but then split the valve somehow and had to change the tube. I was just looking forward to hitting the headwind when a bus offered me a free ride to El Calafate. How could I refuse! It would have taken me another day I think as it was 66kms to go when he picked me up.

Here in El Calafate I have been on a spending spree buying a new camera, a new tyre and now spending a fortune in the internet cafe. Tomorrow I will go check out the Perito Moreno Glacier (probably by bus) and maybe have another rest day too as I have just spotted that there is a Folk Music concert on in town.

Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine

Thanks everyone for the birthday messages. I had a lovely time at a mountain Refuggio quaffing wine, spining yarns, eating cottage pie with egg and cheese and sleeping like a log in my tent despite 70mph winds. The next morning I poked my head out of the flap at sunrise to see a reddish glow on the torres before going back to sleep with a hangover. I´ve now hiked most of the W route and am now considering making it into a loop. Cuernas and Torres were spectacular, tomorrow I hike up to the Grey Glacier. Loads of cool people on the trail. Brits, Yanks, Israilis, French, Belgium, Spanish, Swedish to name but a few. Good for company and conversation.

Route from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine national park was a bit windy and a gravel road most of the way. Met a switz guy who cycled from Alaska at a cafe in Cero Castillo.

Bad news is my camera screen broke and I now have no idea what will happen. Nevertheless, I still take photos blindly and hope for the best. I think I will buy on in Calafate as a birthday pressie.

Also, sorry to anyone who got a spam e-mail. Don´t know what that is about.

10 gadgets for bike travel

There are a few gizmos that make life a bit easier for a bicycle traveller so I thought I would share my top ten

1. Thermometer: I picked this up this morning in Punta Arenas. How else am I going to brag about the extreme cold I endured in the Andes and the brain melting heat in the tropics. Also, should give me a sporting chance at some basic weather prediction.

2. SD card reader: More descrite (and therefore safer) than plugging in your digital camera etc.

3. Miniture tripod: I´m touring alone so have to be best freinds with the self-timer.

4. Flint and steel: My friend Lindsay gave me this as a going-away-pressie. It is indispensible. Works every time for lighting fires or stoves and doesn´t matter if it gets wet.

5. Swiss army knife: never does a day go by without me using this trusty tool.

6. Universal adaptor: Argentina has a combination of flat and round-pins (so you can use either) and Chile has round pins. Either way its worth having an adaptor mine will do any country in the world and also has a USB input which is ideal for charging up the ipod.

7. Combination bike lock: Cheap but hopefully enough to put an oppotunist theif off. I´ll never loose the key because there isn´t one.

8. Spork: Awesome eating utensil. Needed for stiring pasta, shoveling said pasta into mouth and then for spreading dulce de leche onto some bread. But I guess any spoon would have done.

9. Pen: Mine was a gift from CAAC and I probably would have forgotten one otherwise. Diary entries would be a bit minimal without it.

10. Toepeak Alien 2: It´s worth having a decent multi tool for the bike. This all-singing-all-dancing one is ideal.

Darren Alf is really the king of this kind of kit list. Here are links to his lists on a similar theme. . .
Top 10 Most Important Items on a Bike Tour
Thankfully, I have 8 out of 10 with me. I consider that a pretty good score, a First at uni. I don´t have a mirror or mobile phone.
10 Important Items You Should Have But Might Not Think of Bringing On Your Bike Tour
I managed 7 out of 10 with these, just a 2:1. Forgetting toilet roll (I´ve just stollen a wedge from the hostel), extra camera battery (which would be really useful) and mini USB cable (which wouldn´t).

Ushuaia to Rio Grande

My lazing about in Buenos Aires is behind me now and the adventure has begun!!!

Arrived in Ushuaia and put the bike together and headed off into town to buy food and fuel. There is a sign saying "Ushuaia: fin del monde principio del todo". Then I wound on up into the mountains in, shall we say, not too bad weather. It sleeted a bit but generally the wind wasn´t too bad and nor was the temerature. In fact going up hill it got a bit hot. My first campsite was in the snow near the top of Paso Garibaldi surrounded by beautiful snow capped mountains (all about Ben Nevis sort of size). It was very chilly so I just dived into the tent and got some soup and pasta on the go. had a cup of tea and hit the sack. It was a cold and windy night, I would estimate -2C or so, but inside my lovely warm sleeping bag it was toasty! Next I summited the pass and free wheeled for about 10kms the other side past a gorgeous lake.

Then the scenery started to flatten out a bit. All the truck drivers, motorbikes and some cars wave or beep their horns to cheer me along which is great fun. Tolhuin consisted of a petrol station. So I bought a chocolate bar and a fizzy drink and carried on. Later I found a great free camping area with loads of Argentinians on thier hols. I set up the tent and bits of ice and snow fell out, but in sunshine it dried out instantly. Then I got a fire up and running and cooked some pasta and some tea and then just chilled out by the fire with a book. Doesn´t get dark till quite late here so I am usually in bed before dark and get up after sunrise.

Today was more of a slog because the wind has picked up. I fought a headwind all the way but its flat and featureless. Just the occassional llama. Arrived in Rio Grande and checked into the Hostel Agentina. Looking forward to a shower and a decent feed. Hoping to make it to Torres del Paine for my birthday (think that´ll make a good pressie).

Don´t foget there are more pictures on flickr.

Ben's cycle manual

My brother sent me a poem he has written and its too good to hoard just for myself. Apparently, the UK police have just canned publishing a 93 page cycle manual for police officers . He thought he could do better and with less words.

Ben’s Cycling Manual by Ben aged 37

(Brackets not to be read)

Verse 1 – how to ride

Push pedals,

Steer true,

DON’T HIT ANYTHING,

Or, let anything hit you.

Verse 2 - equipment

And wear a helmet,

Bright colours and lights,

And avoid bus drivers who,

Like getting in fights. (look out for glazed and blood shot eyes)

Verse 3 - survival

Don’t argue with gutters, (here speaks the voice of experience)

Or run, lights that are red.

Because these are both sure ways,

Of ending up dead.

Also, thought it might be a good idea to get "Ben´s favourite cycling joke" aired as well. Why couldn't the bicycle stand up ? It was two tired. Cheers bro.

Warm Showers

My experience of using hospitality websites, both hosting and visiting, has been great. I love the randomness of turning up in a stranger's home (and in their life), and it was remarkably good fun to have people stay (and very little effort). Following on from the previous post I wrote about this kind of thing, I got in touch with Randy Fay - the webmaster for the warmshowers.org website. Randy and Nancy have just returned to the USA from a bike tour from the top of Canada to the bottom of South America. Read about their trip on their website http://www.hobobiker.com/. A map of where potential hosts live can be found here. I asked Randy a few questions about Warmshowers.

I am a big fan of sites like your own, globalfreeloaders, couchsurfing and hospitality club. Can you briefly explain how your site works for people who have never used it?
It's really much like all the other hospitality networks. You sign up and then you can search for hospitality or other support using several different search facilities, including a map that locates hosts. Warmshowers.org is a *reciprocal* hospitality network, so you're saying at least "I will host someday" when you sign up. Many members on extended trips or at different points in their lives can't offer hospitality, but in the long term they will.


There is the obvious financial benefit of not having to pay for accommodation but could you describe some of the other benefits to cyclists?
In my experience, it's not really the financial benefits that are as important as the social benefits. You get to meet fantastic and interesting people from all over the world, and share an evening or two with them. Sometimes and some places it's cheaper to camp or get a hotel than it is to stay with a host (and bring some beer, and fix dinner, etc.). But the benefits of meeting somebody local and getting their perspective is amazing.

Are there any drawbacks, problems or dangers? What are you doing to counter these?
It can be a bit of work to spend the whole evening socializing :-) Sometimes it's exhausting, although so valuable.We haven't had any reports of security issues, although we've had a couple of annoying or odd members. There's a writeup on personal security at http://www.warmshowers.org/content/member-security

What are your top 5 countries for cycle touring?
Probably Colombia, Mexico, Peru, Guatemala, Canada. Ask most Europeans and they'll tell you the US is a fabulous place to cycle-tour, with enormously friendly and interested people.

What tips would you give cyclists new to touring?
Start out slowly and build up slowly. You can go a long ways a little at a time. Remember that cycle touring is not an athletic event, it's a way to travel and really know the country you're traveling through.

What, would you say, are the best aspects of hosting?
Getting to know all those wonderful and interesting people.

Check out some of my other CHEAP SLEEP posts.
Bothy ~ Scottish shelters that welcome weary walkers.

Tent ~ The ultimate tool for sleeping free.
Car ~ For those too lazy to put their tent up.
Bivvy ~ Soggy misery keeps you lightweight.
Couch ~ Make friends with the Internet.
Airport ~ The largest en-suite bedroom you'll ever stay in (complete with coffee shop).

Van ~ Dirtbagger Russ tells us how its done.

Dublin to Belfast & Even More Cycling Weekend Ideas!

Forgot to take my camera

After quite an intense training run in the Pentlands on Saturday, in preparation for the Hodgo this weekend, I whooshed over on the ferry and train to visit Ray. So speedy was the journey that I arrived in time for Sunday dinner (a delicious Mexican treat, thanks Breda!). After dinner, Ray and I headed into Dublin for a few jars. We arrived back at his flat in the small hours and continued resolving all the worlds problems. Then I had a very comfy sleep on an inflatable bed in the lounge.

I pedalled off on the bike in the morning, as Ray walked to work, with a steadily worsening headache. I followed the N1 to Swords, Balgriggan, Drogheda and Dundalk, along relatively uninspiring A-roads, with every lamppost bedecked with Yes or No posters for the upcoming referendum on Europe. Then I went in search of a ferry, cycling around some delightful hills south of Carlingford and beside Carlingford Lough. I didn't manage to find a ferry across the lough (and so missed out on the Mourne Mountains which looked great across the water). Instead I headed towards Newry and on the way found a windy picnic area where I put on all my clothes, cooked up some rice and veg, and once it got dark slithered into my sleeping bag and slept.

Newry turns out to be quite a big town and I managed to score a cooked breakfast in a greasy spoon and use up the last of my Euros (despite being back in Northern Ireland). Also it is the start of the Newry Canal Path, which in turn is part of the terrific NCN9 which I followed all the way to Belfast. In Belfast, a quick look at the time revealed I was not going to catch my ferry unless I sped up a bit. I achieved this (with a little help from NI Railways) and tucked in to a fish and chips supper on the ferry, washed down with a bottle of Grolsh and Charlies Angels in the video room.

Even More Cycling Weekend Ideas (especially good for encroaching winter)

1. Giant's Causeway
I was keen to visit Ray in Dublin, but from a cycling point of view I think riding out to the Giant's Causeway would make a better weekend trip. You could follow the coast on the way out and return via Randalstown, Lough Neagh and Belfast.

2. Loch Katerine
A beautiful spot ideal for a day trip (perhaps get the paddle steamer on the way out then cycle back) or a longer outing. Maybe a good trip could be to start in Callendar and follow NCN7 to Brig O'Turk, cycle around the loch and off past Stronachlachar and along Loch Arklet to Loch Lomond. Most bikes should be ok (tourers and MTBs but racers might struggle) to cycle along the West Highland Way up to Crainlarich. Then a section on the dreaded A82 (or you could attempt to use the dismantled railway) to rejoin the NCN7 at Glen Ogle and follow it back to Callendar. Previous Post.

3. Loch Lubnaig
If you fancy a short and sweet day trip, a nice section of NCN7 is alongside Loch Lubnaig between Callendar and Strathyre. Callendar is quite an easy place to spend time and money eating in cafes and browsing shops. Strathyre has a more streamlined set of amenities but at a push one of the pubs will knock you up a bowl of soup. Previous Post.

4. Aberfeldy and Loch Tay
This was a fun weekend tour. I headed up the A823 through Dunfermline, past Knockhill and then past Creiff and the pretty Sma Glen. There is a land rover track from Newton Bridge that looks a bit tasty (NN873318) that will land you up on the south side of Loch Tay. Also, I have it on a reliable authority (Nick) that the road up through Glen Quiach is offers great scenery, but involves quite a climb. I opted to continue along the A826 to Aberfeldy which was fairly dull. There are campsites, hostels, bunkhouses and B&Bs in Aberfeldy but if its the weekend of the Highland Games book in advance or you might end up at a stag-do.
The NCN7 can be followed along the south side of Loch Tay (a lovely bit of road) and then past Killin and back to the central belt via Callendar. If your heading back into Edinburgh either follow one or other of the Round-the-Forth routes (NCN76 they are south and north of the Forth) or get the train back from Stirling. Quite long days of cycling so you may prefer to string this out over three days. Previous Post.

5. Union Canal
Get the train to Glasgow and cycle home along the Union canal. This is manageable in a summers day but after autumn it would be worth having lights. We gave up at Linlithgow and got the train home when I did this last winter on a very miserable and wet day, dark and wet trumps cycling bliss for some. There are a few pubs, and the Falkirk Wheel, along the way to cheer you up. Another option would be to cycle out on NCN75 via Bathgate and Airdrie and stay the night with a friend in Glasgow or in a hostel.

Check out more cycling ideas here and here.

Gate Crashing

Cochill Burn

My new bike arrived on Friday and so I decided to take a spin up to Aberfeldy on the weekend. I headed up through Dunfermline, past Knockhill (where a few fast cars where wizzing around the race course) and Crossed the Ochils through Glen Devon. Then I took in Glen Eagles to Crieff and from there to Aberfeldy.

In Aberfeldy I ran into a biker (the leather clad motorcycle type) and ended up getting myself invited to his son's stag do in a bunk house on top of a very steep hill. This was superb good luck! I bought the stag (who had been awake for approximately 54 hours and was supremely drunk) a bottle of whiskey as a thank you present. He just said, "Thanks, could you put it over there with the 15 others."

With roasted pig, beer and heavy rock, not to mention a drunken rope swing, I settled in.

Drunk as lords and dressed like idiots. Fantastic!

On Sunday morning I had a hangover. I filled up my water bottle with ice and warm water (the cold tap was broken in the bunkhouse) and breakfasted on more pig and apple sauce. Then I free wheeled down into Aberfeldy and pedalled west. I followed the south bank of Loch Tay which has a small single track road and superb views over the loch to the Ben Lawers range. By Killin the hangover was easing and I joined NCN7 which I followed to Callander.

I didn't go there, but I'm sure its an interesting place

A weird castle thing and my bike

Loch Tay

I made it to Bridge of Allen before the heavens opened and it tipped it down all of the rest of the way to Charlestown. Bike was brilliant!

Canoes passing my lunch spot on Loch Tay

18 Grueling Mountain Races in Scotland

If you love the hills and you need a challenge try these for size. . .

The Big Daddies

1. West Highland Way Race ~ 95 miles with 12,000 feet of ascent following the West Highland Way from Milngavie to Fort William.

2. Islands Peaks Race ~ A team of sailors and runners sail from Oban to Troon via Mull, Jura and Arran. Includes 4 hill races totalling 60 miles with 12,000 feet of ascent.

3. Cateran Trail ~ 55 miles with 8,000 feet of ascent. A circular trail in Perthshire starting and finishing in Blairgowrie.

4. Highland Fling ~ 53 miles. The first half of the West Highland Way from Milngavie to Tyndrum.

5. Devil of the Highlands ~ 43 miles. The second half of the West Highland Way from Tyndrum to Fort William.

Long Hill Races

6. Lairig Ghru ~ 27 miles with 2,100 feet of ascent.

7. Glenshee 9 ~ 21 miles with 5,900 feet of ascent.

8. Ochil 2000s ~ 18 miles with 5,000 feet of ascent.

9. Two Breweries ~ 18 miles with 4,900 feet of ascent.

10. Isle of Jura ~ 16 miles with 7,500 feet of ascent.

11. Pentland Skyline ~ 16 miles with 6,200 feet of ascent.

12. Arrochar Alps ~ 16 miles with 7,900 feet of ascent.

Chalenges, Duathalons and Mountain Marathons

13. Highland Cross Duathalon ~ 20 mile run from Morvich to the head of Loch Affric and then a 30 mile road cycle to Beauly.
14. Corrieyarick Challenge ~ run, cycle or duathalon, 17 mile hill section and 26 mile road section.
15. Lowe Alpine Mountain Marathon ~ 2 day event for teams of two where camping equipment must be carried.
16. Highlander Mountain Marathon ~ 2 day event for teams of two where camping equipment must be carried.
17. Great Wilderness Challenge ~ a choice of 7, 13 and 25 mile races.
18. Hebridean Challenge~road bikes, mountain bikes and kayaks are required for this team event.

Have I missed out any? Has anyone competed in them all?! Let me know what you think. . .

I now offer guided walks and walking holidays in the UK in Northumberland, the Pennines, the Lake District, Scotland and further afield.

I'm always keen for outdoor adventures to help people learn the skills to explore! My particular focus is mountain skills such as navigating with a map and compass and wild camping for expeditions.

Find out more

Highland Cross

Letting the other CAACers disappear ahead of me, I took the first four and a half miles at a gentle pace. Then, after crossing a bridge, there was a steep climb. Feeling strong, I kept a steady jog up the hill and took satisfaction in overtaking several people walking including David Law. On a narrow path near the top there was a dramatic waterfall and then the ground levelled. For the next few miles, as far as the Camban Bothy, the ground was undulating and I still felt good and kept up the pace overtaking Dave Henderson.

On flatter and stonier ground I started to get a bit of pain in my knee which checked my pace. In fact I took it easy all the way across the river, past the Youth Hostel and as far as the "Fire Ladies Welcome". (The race was originally devised for firemen and their wives would meet them here.) I wasn't at all tempted by the spread of sandwiches and cakes, but the ambulance truck looked comfortable!

Shaking thoughts of quitting I headed up the notorious Yellow Brick Road. To clear things up, its not yellow, there are no bricks and calling it a road would be a generous lie. What it is is a hard stony track at a steady incline for the length of Loch Affric. I struggled on.

The track continued and eventually became a paved road. I found it harsh to run on this surface and had to walk a few sections. Soon the transition appeared. A kindly bespectacled old local handed me my bike and I changed into my cycle shorts and scoffed a banana. Then I was off to whizz down hill at electrifying near-F1 speeds.

Well not quite. After I had gone a few hundred metres I realised the rear tyre was a bit soft. I stopped, pumped some air in and continued. After a while I heard a clanging sound of metal on road. I stopped again and realised there was a split in the side of the tyre. The tyre must have been damaged when being transported from Inverness. I popped off the wheel and stuck a few patches on the inner tube but there was nothing much I could do to repair the tyre. Fortunately a reasonable amount of air stayed in the Tyre and I managed to get to the end by stopping every quarter of an hour or so to pump it up. A little frustrating but I was just glad to get back to Beauly where a bed, bath, shower, dinner and beer were patiently waiting for me.

It was my third visit to Glen Affric in four weeks. I was there a month ago munro bagging with Alastair, then I was back for the LAMM two weeks ago.

On Sunday, to loosen up the legs, Dave and I headed up a couple of munros in Glen Affirc called Toll Creagach and Tom a'Choinich. We dropped the Tom one along a ridge that looked a bit steep from a distance. Reassured by a dog walker that there was a good path, we followed it and it were glad we did.

Hunger

The Hungry Cyclist in Rio

On the hottest day I have ever known in Scotland, I opted out of looking at Inverary Castle with the others and instead ran up Beinn Bhuidhe. I started out along the track in Glen Fyne and took the left fork through Merk Park and up to a col where Merk Burn begins. From there I climbed up north and then reached a flat bit where I managed to run as far as the base of the ridge. Here I walked up a steep gully. I then jogged along the ridge to the summit. The trig point, usually a surefire navigational landmark, was toppled over and incorporated into the cairn. I ran back the same way. I had my shirt off for the whole run. In Scotland.

I met the others at a beach near Bellanoch and we had a bbq, drank beer and enjoyed the sunshine. Sunday was a lying on the beach day and I finished reading The Hungry Cyclist by Tom Kevill-Davies (see thehungrycyclist.com). I have to say, I loved this book.

He rode his bike the scenic route from NYC to Rio, searching for the perfect meal. His route took in the Great lakes, crossing the Rockies, Mexican deserts, a dodgy river journey across a continent and hundreds of miles of Brazilian beach. On the way he tastes bull's testicles, pigs brain, hallucinogenic mushrooms, armadillo, fried piranha cooked outside a brothel and he learns how to barbecue a guinea pig. More often his search for the perfect meal is successful. Throughout the book there are the best recipes from each area he has cycled through. I'm hoping to try making some of his recipes, maybe Ron Don, Pupusas, Fish Tacos or Hangtown Fry, as soon as I can figure out where to get the ingredients. Along the way he met some coluorful characters, such as a Panamanian fireman who thought he was MacGyver and a lycra clad German cyclist whose idea of a good meal was birdseed, jam and bananas.

I think there are two great strengths to this book. Firstly, there is the strong theme of food. With a distinct purpose to his trip, the writing is focused on the next newly discovered dish, and the people who cook and eat it. Many travelogues become a little self indulgent to the point that the author talks only about himself and his problems, and almost ignores his surroundings. This was impossible for Tom because of the second great strength: his superb sense of humour. Often self deprecating and naturally charming, on one occasion I dropped the book laughing.

Loch Katrine

The forecast showed sun symbols across the country so, envisaging a Sunday of sunny cycling, I opted for cycling shorts. We pedaled out of the car park at Loch Achray following the Dukes Pass. As we dropped into Aberfoyle there were a few tantilising sunny spells. On the road that passes Lochs Ard and Chon the sunshine gave in and was replaced by cloud. By Stronachlachar it was drizzling and once we were well on the way to the westerly point of Loch Katerine we were getting drenched.
The route round the loch was paved all the way with occasional notice boards explaining points of interest. With the wind at our backs we rolled along the undulating road. Views of Ben Lomond and the Arrachar Alps are supposed to be great but we saw sod all as the cloud dropped. The midges started biting too! Oh well, the pub at the big car park served us up fish and chips and with happy tummies we pedaled back to the car.

Another 4 Great Cycling Weekends In Scotland

Some more weekend trips on the bike.

1. Lammermuir Hills
Living in Edinburgh there is always the temptation to get in the car, or on a train, and head for the highlands. But why not start your cycling weekend from home? One option is to head off over the Lammermuir Hills and spend the night somewhere around Duns or Berwick-upon-Tweed. There are several landrover tracks that could be used for a hilly route. Also there are two scenic roads worth incorporating in your weekend.

The first, from Gifford, follows the B6355 till you reach NT599629, then turns left up a steep hill. Keep following the road over several more climbs and decents. The moorland is reminiscent of Devon or Yorkshire and eventually spits you out down a long decent into Longformacus. From here the best of the scenery is over apart from passing the nicely shaped Dirrington Great Law.

The second stretch of road, on the way back perhaps, runs beside Whiteadder Water from Ellem Lodge (NT708595) right up to the Dam. Then after a short sharp hill a panorama unfolds of the Whiteadder Reservoir and the shapely hills around. Shortly after passing the tail of the reservoir, turn right (NT654602) and continue to follow the younger Whiteadder Water up into pleasant heather hills. Off the bike, a stone circle (NT626655), an iron age hill fort (NT622671) and Nunraw Abbey provide interest until you roll up in the pleasant village of Garvald.
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2. Glen Spey and Glen Roy
This is a rewarding trip but you need to be prepared to push your bike over boggy ground for about a mile or so and cross some largish rivers without bridges. The rest of the route is on land rover tracks, quiet single track roads, and then a quick nip along the A86.

Saturday begins with a rid along Lochan na Earba and Loch Laggan, passing the house where Monarch of the Glen was filmed, and then climbing a pass into Glen Shirra. From Glenshirra Lodge you follow a good paved single track road further than the OS map suggests, up to the woods at NN478958. Opposite here there is a bothy shaped building, but the Melgarve Bothy is further along a land rover track over a bridge and near a farm building. Get some food and some rest, you'll need energy for Sunday.

The path marked on the map is a fairly muddy land rover track as far as the recently renovated Shesgnan. From here to the Luib Chonnal Bothy you will have to push for most of the way. The track virtually disappears for the first boggy section to the ruins near the Shesgnan Burn. Cross this and pick up the path which contours the side of Meall Clach a Cheannaiche giving a pleasant aspect for Loch Spey. Riding in fits and starts you'll make it to Luib Chonnal in time for brunch! From here there is a good surface all the way, first on a land rover track along the Roy to Brae Roy Lodge, and then a single track road through the lush Glen Roy to Roybridge. Look out for the parallel roads, a feature caused by an ancient glacial lake.

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3. Dunkeld to Dunfermline via Dundee
Makes for a nicely alliterative title but its only an extra hour or so to cycle back to Edinburgh. Get the train to Dunkeld and follow the national cycle network route 77 to Dundee. We stayed with friends but there are hostels and camping options too. From Dundee back to Edinburgh there are a number of route choices across the quiet back roads of Fife. Be sure to include a view of the north side of the Lomond Hills and past Loch Leven. We also particularly enjoyed the climb up to Loch Glow following NCN1.

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4. Gaick and More

The Gaick is a mountain pass that has been in use for many hundreds of years. Its a good day out on a bike mainly on land rover tracks and single track paved roads. There is a section beside Loch An Duin where only confident mountain biking gods will manage to cycle which is followed by a short stretch in a muddy bog where even gods will be forced to push. There are also a few largish rivers to be crossed. The highlights of the route are the three scenic lochs and the imposing mountains around you. Look out for the ruins of the bothy where the Black Officer was killed by a massive avalanche in 1800 (here NN758836). From the Dam of Loch an t-Seilich there is a paved road all the way to Kingussie. Its worth checking out the Ruthven Barracks (NN780993). NCN7 is an option for the way back, often following General Wade's Military Road.

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Moy, Roy, Spean and Spey

The explosion almost threw Magda into Loch Lagan

I came up with a plan for a weekend of cycling using tracks as far as possible and staying overnight in the Melgarve Bothy. We made a late start as I needed 3 new tyres fitted to the car, so at 4pm on Saturday we parked at Moy and cycled south across the River Spean. We then contoured around Beinnen Shuas and followed Lochan na h-Earba to the the forest and then down hill to Ardverikie House (where Monarch of the Glen was filmed).

We then followed the drive way along the banks of Loch Laggan past a sandy beach and the pretty gate house (Magda likes this better than the big house). Crossing the A86 we took a track by Aberarder Lodge that climbed steeply into Glen Shirra and then coasted down to Loch Crunachdan. We followed a quiet road all the way to Melgarve where there were some ruins, one of General Wade's bridges, and the bothy.

Wooding on wheels

We left all our gear in the bothy and cycled back to the woods to pick up some fire wood. Back at the bothy I cooked pasta which we had to eat with tiny fish and chip shop forks because we forgot to pack the normal ones. Meanwhile, Magda got a roaring fire going in the open fireplace. It was so hot we were forced to sit on the opposite side of the room. After a few games of cards we hit the sack.Playing cards as far as humanly possible from the centre-of-the-sun hot fire

We woke up a bit cold and were keen to get moving. We packed up and set off into drizzle. I had my doubts about the path we were going to follow parallel with the River Spey to Luib-Chonnal. At first my apprehensions were proved unfounded as we followed a well made land-rover track as far as Shesgnan. But then, the path dissapeared and was replaced by a boggy slog.

Magda bravely attempts to cycle on the bog after Shesgnan (the stone hut in the distance)

On a flatish bit we found some ruins and then had to cross Shesgnan Burn (more about river crossing later). We found the path again on the side of Meall Clach a Cheannaiche but only short sections were ridable before a pile of rocks or a bog forced us to push. Despite the physical challenges, the views of the Creag Meagaidh massif, the open moorland and Loch Spey were great.

We got to Luib Chonnal, a nice bothy beside a non-existent forest, just before a rain shower. We got a fire going in a wood burning stove to dry out my wet boot and cooked some savory rice. My boot got soggy during one of the 5 times I had to cross Allt Chonnal. I have to cross each river 5 times because Magda is a bit nervous of crossing them. So I have to:-
1) First cross myself with my bike,
2) then cross back,
3) help Magda across,
4) then cross back,
5) before finally crossing with Magda's bike.
I don't hold a grudge because Magda had packed a spare pair of socks for me.

The homely Luib Chonnal Bothy

From Luib Chonnal we followed a good track beside the River Roy. The undulating route is surrounded by attractive peaks and we got a good look at the Falls of Roy. At Brae Roy Lodge we picked up a paved road and continued along Glen Roy. At a car park/viewpoint on the road there is an explaination of the Parallel Roads of Glen Roy. These look like tracks that run along contour lines along the steep sides of the valley. The Gaelic explaination is that they were built by Fingal a mythic giant hunter. Science unromantically puts them down to shorelines of ancient ice-dammed lochs that flooded the entire glen whilst an ice-sheet decayed at the end of the last ice age.

From Roybridge back to the car was rather unpleasant cycling along a fast A-road in the rain.

5 Cycling Weekends In Scotland

You can have a holiday for two days each week and it does not have to leave your pockets empty. When you go back to work on Monday you will be refreshed and when someone asks what you did with your weekend you can tell them that you watched no Big Brother at all. Everyone should have a bicycle. A second-hand mountain bike can be very cheap (on gumtree and ebay for instance) and will give you the chance to get about at a perfect pace. Here are five weekends in Scotland.

1. Great Glen
Starting in Fort William, follow the off road cycle route, through the stunning Great Glen formed by the Highland boundary fault. The path will take you past Ben Nevis, and along side Loch Lochy before you arrive at Fort Augustus, a picturesque town where there are a good range of B&Bs, pubs and restaurants. Suitably fed, watered and rested, the next leg follows Loch Ness, so keep your eyes peeled for Nessie! If you arrive early, Inverness is a fascinating city to explore.
Both Inverness and Fort William are well served by rail from Glasgow and Edinburgh.

2. Arran
Easily accessible from the central belt by train and ferry, the Isle of Arran is a favourite for cyclists and walkers. A circumnavigation of the island is comfortable in two days by bike, with plenty of camp sites and B&Bs.
If you are a cutting a speedy pace the whole island is manageable in a day. On the remaining day a hill walk (or run) up Goatfell is a worthwhile outing, as is Caisteal Abhail.
For the more leisurely, why not take on just the north half of the island (with the most dramatic scenery). If you are heading round clockwise, you can whizz down a long hill, after climbing out of Glen Chalmadale, down in to the charming village of Lochranza. Here you will find a welcoming pub with good food, and a convenient youth hostel. On the way back, cross the island by a road built by Thomas Telford. Once back in Brodick, if you have time to spare waiting for your ferry home, bear in mind that Arran is famous for its whiskey, seafood and (especially for calorie-consuming cyclists) chocolate.

3. Ardnamuchan
Whilst crossing the Coran Ferry, there is a magic view south-west up Loch Linnhe as far as Mull, perfect for contemplating the tough weekend of biking ahead. Then it is time to put in some miles. Turn away from the waterfront at Inversanda and pass the foot of Garbh Bhienn. Follow the road along the north shore of Loch Sunart and then join the winding B8007 with a left turn at Salen. This fantastic but gruelling road, with all its bumps and bends, eventually leads you out to Ardnamuchan Point, the most westerly point on the mainland in the UK and a great place for spotting whales. Do not miss the pure white sandy beach at Sanna Bay, which feels almost Caribbean (if the sun is out). The most enjoyable way to spend the night here is wild camping. That is as long as you have remembered to bring the midge repellent.
Return to Fort William via Kinlochmoidart, Glen finnan and Loch Eil.

4. Mull
Mull offers great wildlife with a chance of spotting birds of prey, seals and dolphins. It also has Ben More the only island locked Munro outside of Skye. The scenery is fantastic, especially around Loch Na Keal.
Once you roll off the ferry in Craignure, follow the coast north east to Salen. Then pick up the cycle track that goes through Salen Forest and beside Loch Frisa (keep your eyes peeled for Sea Eagles above the trees). Turn left on a quiet road and spend a few hours picnicking on the delightful Calgary Bay. Then follow round past Loch Tuath and Ulva. There is a basic campsite at Fidden farm or you may prefer to wild camp a little further on (with the sheep for neighbours).
Wake up, pack up and cycle. Those with more time on their hands will follow the road out to Iona, whereas those constrained to a weekend will head back around to Craignure through Glen More. If there is time to kill before your ferry home, pop out and see Duart Castle.

5. Islay and Jura
There is and old Gaelic proverb that says; find you horse on Mull, you cow on Islay and your wife on Jura. However even if you already have a cow (and a wife) its still worth coming for the great views, standing stones, beaches and low-traffic cycling.

You can coordinate ferries so that you arrive at Port Ellen and return from Port Askaig. Once you have crossed Islay, take the ferry across to Jura and saunter along to Craighouse. Here you will find a distinct aroma of whiskey in the air and a nice pub. You may succumb to these delights and camp in the lawn in front of the pub, but a better spot just half a mile further, is a pure white beach by Loch Na Mile. Perhaps you can spend the next day looking for standing stones, or walking in the hills before riding back to catch your ferry home.