Goodbye Scotland

My right ankle is now double the size of my left one. I was out last night with Charlie (the boss) and Tim (my replacement) and, I hasten to add that I had had a beer or two, I attempted to hurdle a wall.

Today is my last day at work and my last day in Edinburgh and my last day in Scotland. I love living here in Edinburgh, the most beautiful city I have seen, and will miss it. Scotland is a fantastic country and I have loved every minute I have spent exploring the wonderful mountains, glens, lochs and islands. Most of all, I will miss the great people I have met here and, in turn, I will especially miss the people I have climbed with, kayaked with, been cycling with, been hill walking with, run hill races with and enjoyed a beer afterwards with. Thank you all for making me feel welcome and I will be back before you know it!!

Patrick Winterton

Patrick Winterton and Mick Berwick

There are those who say that all the great challenges have been done and all that is left now are obscure adventures in obscure places. Earlier this year Patrick Winterton and his friend Mick Berwick became the first people ever to sea kayak to the Faroe Islands from Scotland. This astonishing and inspirational sea voyage confirms that significant adventures are still up for grabs, even locally. The crossing fitted into a longer journey Patrick made from Wales and via south-west Ireland. Patrick and Mick used their trip to raise money for the RNLI and you can donate on their Justgiving page. I asked Patrick a few questions and here are his replies.

I gather that your journey was inspired by a route taken by Irish monks. Can you tell me how you came across their story and what it was that inspired you to attempt it in sea kayaks.
I think it is fair to say that the expedition was inspired by Dan and Karen Trotter who attempted the crossing in 1995. They failed by a mere 80km before climbing aboard their support vessel. We have debated the possibility of doing it unsupported since then. I read around the subject of links between UK/Ireland and the Faroes and came across St Brendan and hence the plan to follow his route from SW Ireland to the North.

How many days did you spend at sea on the crossing to the Faroes? Did you get much sleep?
The 360 km crossing itself from North Rona to Suduroy took just over 74 hours and we spent 3 nights at sea. Clocking up 5 hours sleep in total. the last 36 hours was non stop due to incoming northerly winds. We designed a kayak tent that could cope with force 4+ and is just like an emergency shelter. Would put this up every time we stopped and made a huge difference to temperature. Neither of us got cold at any stage. The weather was very calm for the first 4o hours, so calm that we heard an saw whales and dolphins a long time before we saw them. (Finn whales and minkhe). Despite their size these creatures have a calming effect and give a massive boost to the paddling.

How hard was the physical aspect of the crossing? Did you do any specific training? How well did you and Mick Berwick get along? How did you resolve disagreements?
Physically we were fine apart from sores around our hips and backsides. Mick and I had both clocked up 1000's of km's in preparation. We also did some big crossings/night crossings/ 24 hour max dist sessions to prepare. We benefited massively from all the mistakes we made along the way. Fatigue was a major problem but increasing winds and an urgent push to beat the weather showed what a wonder drug adrenaline is. Mick and I had fairly distinct roles on the crossing. He monitored progress, called the stops, I did the comms and made tactical/route decisions. We both shared the lead which caused a few problems as our compasses never agreed. 1-2 degrees makes a big difference over 20 mins. We paddled at pretty much the same speed and had no irritations on that front. Mick has 2 bad ears and never heard anything first time. I got over this frustration by insulting him first and when he said 'what' I'd ask the question. We get on best when times are hard and both seem to be very positive when it is looking marginal.

Can you recommend a journey in Scotland for someone new to sea kayaking? What was your first sea kayaking experience and how old were you?
I lived in Norway when young and was let lose at the age of eleven to paddle solo around the fjords. managed to pick up 6 sea kayaks from Raleigh International when I moved to Scotland in 1994 and started with a circumnavigation of Jura, an eyeopener of a trip with sound of Islay and Corryvrecken, which I still rate as one of Scotland's best. I go for the remotest parts and nothing can beat Mingulay for a long weekend or North Rona. Part of the attraction is that you can't guarantee to get there. For a first time trip it is as much about choosing the weather as the location. Avoid areas exposed to the Atlantic and those with big tide races, Island of Bute, Lismore or Summer Isles.

What type of food do you like to eat on your kayak trips? Do you have a favourite camp stove recipe?
Food is all about weight on a long trip. Spaghetti fits nicely into the bow, dried soups and dehydrated meals weigh nothing and even taste good after a long day out. If on a weekend paddle the emphasis is on catching/finding food. Scallops with wine take some beating.

What are the things you look for when choosing a campsite on kayak tours?
I generally go for solitude when choosing a site. Somewhere where I can play my whistle without being heard. A view from the tent door is also essential, I'd rather haul the boat up a steep rock than drag it miles up a beach and try and ensure there is a handy alternative for launching again in case the wind changes.

What is your favourite travel or adventure book? Which explorers and adventurers have inspired you?
The stories of Douglas Mawson's survival in Antarctica are a lesson for all and worth remembering when things get unpleasant. I envy and admire early explorers who had places to discover, in particular John Rae who discovered the north west passage.

What is the most extreme weather you've experienced? How did you cope?
Mick and I have been out in force 7/8 without too much trouble but very slow, or rapid, progress depending on direction. Tide races such as Rhinns of Islay can become unmanageable in force 5/6 as we discovered last month. It is essential that you are fitted to a boat and have secure spraydecks if you are to survive extreme conditions.

What are your plans and ambitions for the future?
Mick wants to continue to Iceland. I'm keen to combine skiing and paddling as well as exploring the Faroes. We meet this week to decide.

If you enjoyed reading this (and I know I certainly did) you might be interested in some of the other interviews I have done recently.

Richie Cunningham ~ Ultra runner extraordinaire.

Russ Haines ~ Dirtbagger.

Randy Fay ~ Hobobiker and webmaster of warmshowers.org.
Alan Kimber ~ Expert mountian guide explains snow holes.

Sleep in a Snow Hole

Winter will be upon us soon and with it the season for winter climbing and walking. I asked Alan Kimber, of West Coast Mountain Guides, to explain how to go about sleeping in a snow hole.

Can you explain why mountaineers would use snow holes when climbing as opposed to using a tent or a bivvy bag?
More shelter from the wind.

Is building a snow hole an advisable way to shelter for the night in Scotland's hills in winter?
Yes, but depends on situation and location and conditions.

For the first time snow holer what advice would you give?
Find a snow bank not too far from alternative shelter and practice first. If something goes wrong it should be easy enough to travel downhill, straight to safety.

What equipment is it necessary to take with especially?
A good shovel – snow saw - sleeping bag – insulated sleeping mat – stove – food – All the usual hill survival gear and warm clothing.

What considerations are there to choosing a good spot? Where has been your favourite location?
Try to avoid anything in a gully line where avalanches may slide through. Avoid anything with water running beneath. Difficult to be precise with a favourite spot. It will depend largely on the conditions at the time.

What temperature rating does my sleeping bag need to stay warm?
Four Season.

Won't my expensive down sleeping bag get wet?
Possibly. Cover it with a gore-tex bivvy sack.

What are the drawbacks and dangers of sleeping in snow holes?
Suffocation (make sure you have a ventilation hole). Collapse and damp in thaw conditions. They take a lot of effort to construct compared to using a bothy or pitching a tent.

What are the benefits?
Well constructed in good dry and cold conditions they are bombproof, even in a gale of wind, where a tent might be destroyed. They are also much quieter than a tent in windy weather.

In your opinion what is the greatest winter climb in Scotland?
No comment. There are too many to choose from.

Which mountaineer has inspired you?
Riccardo Cassin – Walter Bonatti.

Can you me the most important tips for winter mountaineering.
Be very good at navigation – Use the correct clothing, ice axe and crampons – Understand avalanche hazards and how to avoid them – Take your time to understand and be able to match the challenges of the winter hills to your own ability and experience.

More information is available in this article: www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/outdoors/articles/snowholing/

I've mentioned other ways to sleep out in the hills before as part of my CHEAP SLEEP series. You could opt for a bothy, tent or bivvy bag.

Warm Showers

My experience of using hospitality websites, both hosting and visiting, has been great. I love the randomness of turning up in a stranger's home (and in their life), and it was remarkably good fun to have people stay (and very little effort). Following on from the previous post I wrote about this kind of thing, I got in touch with Randy Fay - the webmaster for the warmshowers.org website. Randy and Nancy have just returned to the USA from a bike tour from the top of Canada to the bottom of South America. Read about their trip on their website http://www.hobobiker.com/. A map of where potential hosts live can be found here. I asked Randy a few questions about Warmshowers.

I am a big fan of sites like your own, globalfreeloaders, couchsurfing and hospitality club. Can you briefly explain how your site works for people who have never used it?
It's really much like all the other hospitality networks. You sign up and then you can search for hospitality or other support using several different search facilities, including a map that locates hosts. Warmshowers.org is a *reciprocal* hospitality network, so you're saying at least "I will host someday" when you sign up. Many members on extended trips or at different points in their lives can't offer hospitality, but in the long term they will.


There is the obvious financial benefit of not having to pay for accommodation but could you describe some of the other benefits to cyclists?
In my experience, it's not really the financial benefits that are as important as the social benefits. You get to meet fantastic and interesting people from all over the world, and share an evening or two with them. Sometimes and some places it's cheaper to camp or get a hotel than it is to stay with a host (and bring some beer, and fix dinner, etc.). But the benefits of meeting somebody local and getting their perspective is amazing.

Are there any drawbacks, problems or dangers? What are you doing to counter these?
It can be a bit of work to spend the whole evening socializing :-) Sometimes it's exhausting, although so valuable.We haven't had any reports of security issues, although we've had a couple of annoying or odd members. There's a writeup on personal security at http://www.warmshowers.org/content/member-security

What are your top 5 countries for cycle touring?
Probably Colombia, Mexico, Peru, Guatemala, Canada. Ask most Europeans and they'll tell you the US is a fabulous place to cycle-tour, with enormously friendly and interested people.

What tips would you give cyclists new to touring?
Start out slowly and build up slowly. You can go a long ways a little at a time. Remember that cycle touring is not an athletic event, it's a way to travel and really know the country you're traveling through.

What, would you say, are the best aspects of hosting?
Getting to know all those wonderful and interesting people.

Check out some of my other CHEAP SLEEP posts.
Bothy ~ Scottish shelters that welcome weary walkers.

Tent ~ The ultimate tool for sleeping free.
Car ~ For those too lazy to put their tent up.
Bivvy ~ Soggy misery keeps you lightweight.
Couch ~ Make friends with the Internet.
Airport ~ The largest en-suite bedroom you'll ever stay in (complete with coffee shop).

Van ~ Dirtbagger Russ tells us how its done.

Charity

The main reason why I'm heading off on this trip is because I want to. It is also important for me that, on the trip, I can act as a cheerleader for music and cycling.

I also hope that I can raise a bit of money for an organisation called the Mother's Union. I will try to explain why.

I’m a big believer that charity starts at home. Think globally, act locally. One of the best practitioners of this principle is my mother, Alison Hubbard. My mum has spent a life time caring for people through nursing, mothering and volunteering. She became a member of the Mothers' Union when my family moved to Hambledon in the early 1980s and has been actively involved in their community work projects ever since.

Like all the best ideas, the Mothers' Union is deceptively simple. It is a worldwide network of volunteers who are united in their commitment to supporting marriage and family life. But they don’t just sit around chatting and drinking tea. Oh no. Instead, they are involved in many projects in their local communities. These include running small scale farming initiatives in Uganda, lobbying for political change, and setting up family support groups in prisons around the UK. In fact my Mum has become quite a regular visitor to her local prison, but one of her most passionate projects has been the Away From It All holiday scheme.

AFIA, as it is known, is another simple idea: give a holiday to people under stress. I first became aware of its existence when Mum asked me to come along and help for the week. My help, such as it was, pretty much went as far as making sand castles and playing games with the kids. Slowly it dawned on me that the mother of these kids probably hadn't had any time to herself since her children where born, and how revitalising such a simple holiday was for her. I learned that disadvantaged families are often isolated and ignored. An AFIA holiday acts as a chance to get to meet other people in the same boat, often out in the smoking area. Having a friend on the end of a phone can really help. Fundraising and organising the week long holiday is a year long commitment, but a thoroughly rewarding one, undertaken by volunteers like my Mum.

Be under no illusions. Every penny of the money raised by the Mothers' Union is well spent.

Here is the link to the Just Giving donations page.

Russ Haines Interview: Tips for Living in a Van

Dirtbaggin'

I wrote a post recently about sleeping in the car. This is something I do on occasions when I have just driven up to the highlands and can't be bothered to put the tent up. My friend Russ Haines has taken the plunge and decided to live in a van. He works offshore with a 5-week-on-5-week-off shift pattern and decided that paying rent for a room (that he's hardly ever in) wasn't worth it. I asked Russ a few questions about his new dirtbag lifestyle.

I know your very keen on mountain biking and kayaking. Did this play a part in your decision to live in a van?
A massive part! I love being out on my bike or in my boat & if I haven't done one of those in a day then I can't help feeling that's a day wasted. On top of that though I'm pretty lazy & easily distracted, the van seemed like the ideal way to remove the distractions of a comfortable home & focus on getting out & riding all the places that I've wanted to for so long.

What kind of van is it? Have you modified it, or do you intend to?
This first trip I decided to use a rental van, just to see how I got on with it & to get a feel for dirtbag living. I hired a Short Wheel Base Vauxhall Vivaro, bunged a mattress in it & stacked all my stuff where ever there was space. This worked pretty well except Wales decided to dump rain on me for the whole of the first week, making keeping my bed dry a bit of a challenge. The only real modification was the complex lattice of string washing lines & fixing points that appeared over the course of the trip. Never underestimate the importance of a ball of string! I'm looking at getting my own van next time I'm home though & this first experience has definitely given me some ideas for how I want to do it. There'll be a wooden platform on one side for the mattress to go on so that there's storage underneath for my gear meaning plenty of drying space. Also mesh pockets on the sides for stowing clothes, book, torch etc. & hooks on opposing corners for my hammock.

What's the best thing about living in a van?
First off being able to wake up at the trail head or some place with a great view in the morning really inspires you to get out & make the most of the day. Being inside the van is pretty boring. It's only really good for sleeping or eating so your only option is to get out of the thing come rain or shine which is the biggest benefit! Get out & ride! The mobility is also a big factor. Finish a day's riding & just look at the map & choose somewhere to be for the next day. The simplicity of it. Wake up, stove on, tea & porridge, RRRRRRRIIIIIIIDDDDDDEEEEEEE, drive to the next place, dinner, book, bed. It's cheap!

Have their been any problems? How did you get round them?
Only real problem was keeping stuff dry. This meant a bit of rearranging before each ride, bed up against the wall & tying everything to one side, to give me as much space as possible to get changed after a ride & to store the bike & hang up all my wet gear. Lots of newspaper on the floor & it'd generally stopped dripping by the time I'd driven to the next spot.

Have you invited girls back to the van? What is the reaction of your friends?
Can honestly say nope. No girls back. Yet! Reaction of friends has been largely jovial but a few know how much I'm on the road anyway & that it's an ideal set up for me & a good money saver. There's been the odd one or two who's eyes light up at the idea which makes me realise how lucky I am to be in a position to be able to do it. A lot of people's reaction is to ask how on earth I keep clean. In this, the Swine flu age, people are far too hung up on personal hygiene!

So, has your personal hygiene suffered?
I don't think it's suffered but maybe diminished slightly! Have to say there's been a few times when finishing a ride & realise that your legs are covered in sheep shit & you feel a bit guilty but a quick rub with a towel to get the worst off & your soon distracted by the prospect of tea & malt loaf. I've had some funny looks around Supermarkets or whatever & later realised it's because my face is spattered with mud or my hair is a mile high! Like anything else though, a shower is far better when you haven't had one in a while. There are opportunities though. Some of the trail centres with showers, most towns have a swimming pool, campsites, service stations, mates or a good old fashioned jump in a river.

Home sweet home. . .

Where was your most beautiful parking spot so far? Is it easy to find a good spot?
Probably Nant Yr Arian just inland from Aberystwyth. The parking spot is right on top of the Cambrian hills & just as I arrived the weather chose to cheer up for the first time in 5 days revealing a stunning landscape under the thick Welsh fog I'd become accustomed to. Think the break in cloud lasted about two hours before it closed back up again in preparation for a monsoon of apocalyptic proportions! Finding spots is extremely easy, particularly along most A roads. There is often lay-bys for truckers which are great as a lot of them are set back separate from the road so you shouldn't be struck by a rallying yobo at 3am plus there are bushes for the morning wizz. I spent a couple of nights just parked on residential streets which were always fun in the morning; opening the back door to wish my new neighbours a pleasant journey to work as I breakfasted in my sleeping bag. To begin with I was a bit paranoid about people interfering with the van whilst I was asleep in it. Something that seemed less likely on a street full of cars, more probable in a remote lay by but had no trouble there either.

What about when you want home comforts?

As fun & random as it is on the road, in bad weather it's difficult to beat the Glyncorrwg Mountain Bike Trail Centre at Afan in south Wales. A spot you can camp with fantastic facilities, an ace bike shop & a cafe that does huge plates of Lasagne & spicy spuds with cold beers & mountain bike movies late into the night. Not to mention when you get up in the morning you've got three great trails on your door step.

What are your van plans, man?
The plan for the next break is southern Scotland's 7 staines trail centres; Dumfries, Kirroughtree, Glentress , Mabie & Ae definitely. If there's time I'd like to push up to Fort William & ultimately Skye although I've probably missed any chance of good weather. We've only got a short 3 week break from work & there's some family stuff on down south so time will be pressed. There are a few maybes that include heading down to Cornwall for some surf & trying out the Quantock hills as well as the new Downhill runs at Gawton in Tavistock on the way. I'm gutted I didn't get to do more of North Wales last time. I managed to get a full descent of Cadair Idris (3 hours up, 10 mins down!) but I didn't get as far as Snowdon which remains on my to do list. Thinking maybe one to do around Christmas.

What tips would you give someone considering doing the same?

1. Gloves & pads dry pretty well on the air vents.

2. Get an inverter for charging camera batteries while you drive!

3. Separated milk does not make a good cup of tea.

4. Racing sheep is funny!
5. They may attempt to leap over gates.

6. Sheep can't jump gates.

7. Tie everything down.

8. Less stuff means more space.

9. Do it, It's easy!

Sign Post

When left to my own devices I'm not the most tidy of people. One solution is just to have less stuff. If you have very few possessions, and very little storage space, then there is a limit to how much mess you can create. This is one of the reasons I am heading off cycling with all my worldly goods in 4 small paniers. . .

I thought it might be worth writing a post (like tidying my room) that can help you find what you might like to read, something that acts a bit like a contents page.

Rythm Cycle Expedition
For most of 2010 I will be cycling alone and unsupported in South America.

Overveiw ~ What's it all about?
Route ~ Where ya going?
Equipment ~ What's in them bags?
Charity ~ Why I am raising money for the Mothers' Union

Ushuaia to Rio Grande
Rio Grande to Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine to El Calafate
El Calafate to El Chalten
El Chalten to Caleta Tortel
Caleta Tortel to Cochrane
Cochrane to Chile Chico
Chile Chico to Coyhaique

Coyhaique to Puyuhapi

Puyuhapi to Chaiten

Chiloé

Puerto Montt to Entre Lagos

Entre Lagos to San Martin de los Andes

San Martin to Pucon

Pucon to Cañete

Cañete to Tomé

Tomé to Cobquecura

Cobquecura to Algarobbo

Algarrobo to La Serena

Countries and Places
Argentina
Buenos Aires
Chile
Patagoina

Months
November 2009
December 2009

Cheap Sleep
I am always interested in ways to save costs. That's right I'm a cheapskate. Another interest of mine is sleeping. I've written a series of posts about ways to sleep for free or very little. Check 'em out.

Bothy ~ Scottish shelters that welcome weary walkers.
Tent ~ The ultimate tool for sleeping free.
Car ~ For those too lazy to put their tent up.
Bivvy ~ Soggy misery keeps you lightweight.
Couch ~ Make friends with the internet.
Airport ~ The largest en-suite bedroom you'll ever stay in (complete with coffee shop)
Van ~ Dirtbagger Russ tells us how its done.
Warm Showers ~ Webmaster Randy talks about the website that joins bikers with beds.
Snow Hole ~ Alan Kimber, expert mountain guide, explains this windproof winter shelter.

I've got more in mind to write including hammock, beach and some thoughts on open canoeing.

In a similar vein, I will keep updating my Something for Nothing post with tips for reusing, repairing and recycling, geared towards us outdoorsy types.

Interviews
I'm getting into this big time, if you want to know about something you've got to ask! Expect more to arrive soon. If there is someone you'd like me to interview for this blog, let me know. . .
Richie Cunningham ~ Ultra runner.
Russ Haines ~ Dirtbagger.
Randy Fay ~ Hobobiker and webmaster of warmshowers.org.
Alan Kimber ~ Expert mountian guide explains snow holes.
Patrick Winterton ~ Sea kayaker.
William Sichel ~ Ultra runner.


Cycling
I've collected some ideas for weekend cycle trips in these posts
Cycling weekends in Scotland
More Cycling weekends in Scotland
Even More Cycle Trips!

Running
Running took over as my main sporting interest after I scaled back on rock climbing (a scarey old business). I really enjoy running for Corstorphine (CAAC caac.org.uk). I'm especially keen on hill running.
I wrote a list of Scotland's Grueling Mountain Races, which is worth a look if you are thinking about these things. There are several other posts about various hill races, the LAMM, Highland Cross, and a couple of relay hill races Comrie and the Hodgo.
For hill running in Scotland take a look at these websites.
shr.uk.com ~ The Scottish Hill Runners website has a good calendar, results and race reports.
scottishhillracing.co.uk ~ Does most of what the above site does but also has a cool database thingy for all the results and has maps of each race.
Check out all my results.
I interviewed Richie Cunningham who runs the WHW each year along with several other Ultras and 24hr races.

Walking, Munro Bagging and Mountaineering
Although I've not written any particularly 'informative' posts about these activities I'm a big fan. I'm especially keen on wandering off with a tent for 3 or 4 days and staying in Bothies where they are available.

Card Games
Since about the 9th century people have enjoyed passing time with a game of cards. I especially love learning new games.
Peanuts
Quadrado
I'd also love to be better than a begginer at chess but I'm still hopeless.

Books
I always like to have a good bit of reading matter on the go. These writers are worth a look. . .
Tom Kevil-Davies ~ The Hungry Cyclist. Tom completed a long tour of the Americas looking for the best local recipes. (My post)
Alastair Humpreys ~ Round the world cyclist and adventurer. (My post)
Ronald Turnbull ~ Scottish hill walker, bivvy enthusiast and wit. (My post)
Andy Kirkpatrick ~ Hardcore and hillarious mountaineer and rock climber. (My post)

Miscelaneous
There are always a few odds and sods that don't fit into any other category. There are also a few passions of mine that I have not blogged about, such as learning Spanish, music (going to feature heavily in Rhythm Cycle I hope) and cooking. The best thing to do is check out the category list at the bottom of each page.

Hodgo

The world's least enthusiastic Can-Can with Leg 1 behind

"Question 21. What is known as the 4th Estate?", asked the quiz master (a man of BFG proportions). We arrived too late for any reccies of the route, it was dark, and besides that would have ruined the 'romance'. Instead, Team CAAC took on the fell running elite in a grueling battle of general knowledge and set about breaking Tim's Three-Pint-Rule. Sunday's team had been organised and reorganised several times in the course of this thread on the CAAC forum but, of course, the final decision of who would run each leg, as is mandatory, was made in the pub (the campsite's own The Barn End Bar).

In the first leg of the 22nd Ian Hodgson Mountain Relay, I scrambled up a waterfall, beside Dove Crag, listening to my heart beat faster at the steepest part of an exponentially increasingly steep mile and a half run from the campsite. Every now and then I looked up at Chris waiting for me, fresh as a daisy, and spurring me on up. Even so, the ascent was far from finished and in the next 3 miles there was probably only half a mile of runnable down hill. Finally topping out was rewarded with superb views across Lakeland with a clear blue sky. Chris and I dibbed the checkpoint at the top of Red Screes and looked down, eight and a half minutes later we were at the handover. The initial climb was infinitely long and dangerously steep. This was steeper and longer. We set off stepping with trepidation until we hit a scree gully where we managed to surf down the loose rocks at quite a pace, and then, on the progressively gentler grassy slopes, we nailed it to Kirk Stone.
A welcome gentle rain started as we watched Tommy and Pilky set off on Leg two. . .

Good report thread here. Results and splits here. Photos by Tommy's Dad, Colin, here.

PS The 4th Estate is a term used for The Press.

Dublin to Belfast & Even More Cycling Weekend Ideas!

Forgot to take my camera

After quite an intense training run in the Pentlands on Saturday, in preparation for the Hodgo this weekend, I whooshed over on the ferry and train to visit Ray. So speedy was the journey that I arrived in time for Sunday dinner (a delicious Mexican treat, thanks Breda!). After dinner, Ray and I headed into Dublin for a few jars. We arrived back at his flat in the small hours and continued resolving all the worlds problems. Then I had a very comfy sleep on an inflatable bed in the lounge.

I pedalled off on the bike in the morning, as Ray walked to work, with a steadily worsening headache. I followed the N1 to Swords, Balgriggan, Drogheda and Dundalk, along relatively uninspiring A-roads, with every lamppost bedecked with Yes or No posters for the upcoming referendum on Europe. Then I went in search of a ferry, cycling around some delightful hills south of Carlingford and beside Carlingford Lough. I didn't manage to find a ferry across the lough (and so missed out on the Mourne Mountains which looked great across the water). Instead I headed towards Newry and on the way found a windy picnic area where I put on all my clothes, cooked up some rice and veg, and once it got dark slithered into my sleeping bag and slept.

Newry turns out to be quite a big town and I managed to score a cooked breakfast in a greasy spoon and use up the last of my Euros (despite being back in Northern Ireland). Also it is the start of the Newry Canal Path, which in turn is part of the terrific NCN9 which I followed all the way to Belfast. In Belfast, a quick look at the time revealed I was not going to catch my ferry unless I sped up a bit. I achieved this (with a little help from NI Railways) and tucked in to a fish and chips supper on the ferry, washed down with a bottle of Grolsh and Charlies Angels in the video room.

Even More Cycling Weekend Ideas (especially good for encroaching winter)

1. Giant's Causeway
I was keen to visit Ray in Dublin, but from a cycling point of view I think riding out to the Giant's Causeway would make a better weekend trip. You could follow the coast on the way out and return via Randalstown, Lough Neagh and Belfast.

2. Loch Katerine
A beautiful spot ideal for a day trip (perhaps get the paddle steamer on the way out then cycle back) or a longer outing. Maybe a good trip could be to start in Callendar and follow NCN7 to Brig O'Turk, cycle around the loch and off past Stronachlachar and along Loch Arklet to Loch Lomond. Most bikes should be ok (tourers and MTBs but racers might struggle) to cycle along the West Highland Way up to Crainlarich. Then a section on the dreaded A82 (or you could attempt to use the dismantled railway) to rejoin the NCN7 at Glen Ogle and follow it back to Callendar. Previous Post.

3. Loch Lubnaig
If you fancy a short and sweet day trip, a nice section of NCN7 is alongside Loch Lubnaig between Callendar and Strathyre. Callendar is quite an easy place to spend time and money eating in cafes and browsing shops. Strathyre has a more streamlined set of amenities but at a push one of the pubs will knock you up a bowl of soup. Previous Post.

4. Aberfeldy and Loch Tay
This was a fun weekend tour. I headed up the A823 through Dunfermline, past Knockhill and then past Creiff and the pretty Sma Glen. There is a land rover track from Newton Bridge that looks a bit tasty (NN873318) that will land you up on the south side of Loch Tay. Also, I have it on a reliable authority (Nick) that the road up through Glen Quiach is offers great scenery, but involves quite a climb. I opted to continue along the A826 to Aberfeldy which was fairly dull. There are campsites, hostels, bunkhouses and B&Bs in Aberfeldy but if its the weekend of the Highland Games book in advance or you might end up at a stag-do.
The NCN7 can be followed along the south side of Loch Tay (a lovely bit of road) and then past Killin and back to the central belt via Callendar. If your heading back into Edinburgh either follow one or other of the Round-the-Forth routes (NCN76 they are south and north of the Forth) or get the train back from Stirling. Quite long days of cycling so you may prefer to string this out over three days. Previous Post.

5. Union Canal
Get the train to Glasgow and cycle home along the Union canal. This is manageable in a summers day but after autumn it would be worth having lights. We gave up at Linlithgow and got the train home when I did this last winter on a very miserable and wet day, dark and wet trumps cycling bliss for some. There are a few pubs, and the Falkirk Wheel, along the way to cheer you up. Another option would be to cycle out on NCN75 via Bathgate and Airdrie and stay the night with a friend in Glasgow or in a hostel.

Check out more cycling ideas here and here.