Coyhaique to Puyuhuapi
Off to work with a chainsaw and some bulls.
From one barely pronoucably named town to the next, eh? Having said goodbyes to the Christmas crowd, I headed out into the rain and, climbing uphill out of Coyhaique, Brett wizzed by in a pickup truck he'd hitched a ride with. I pushed on. Endless rain and cloud obscured the mountian views but fortunately the waterfalls, which are incredible, were full to bursting with vast quantities of the wet stuff. It almost made me want to strip off and film a rudimentry Timotei shampoo advert.
I failed to reach Manihuales because the lights went off and I camped by the side of the road. In the morning, as I was packing my tent up a couple from Switzerland cycled by and had a chat. They've been on the road for 2 and a half years crossing europe and asia to reach Japan and then flew to Mexico and cycled down here. Epic. In Manihuales I had some coffee and cake and in a few hours time caught up with Moni and Thorsten. We got wet together as the weather continued to throw water down on us. Eventually we stayed in a lovely Hospedaje in Villa Armengual. But first we watched a man off to work with a chainsaw over his shoulder and two giant bulls harnessed together.
In the morning it was still raining and I decided to put in a big day and reach Puyuhuapi. The first obstacle was a mountain pass on a narrow and steep gravel road. Through what looked like forests of giant rhubarb, I hairpinned my way upward and then, in a crazily dangerous way, spiralled my way down. I reached Puyuhuapi and set up in a lovely campsite with canopies for the rain and a wood burning stove to cook on (if you have infinite patience) or dry your socks.
From one barely pronoucably named town to the next, eh? Having said goodbyes to the Christmas crowd, I headed out into the rain and, climbing uphill out of Coyhaique, Brett wizzed by in a pickup truck he'd hitched a ride with. I pushed on. Endless rain and cloud obscured the mountian views but fortunately the waterfalls, which are incredible, were full to bursting with vast quantities of the wet stuff. It almost made me want to strip off and film a rudimentry Timotei shampoo advert.
I failed to reach Manihuales because the lights went off and I camped by the side of the road. In the morning, as I was packing my tent up a couple from Switzerland cycled by and had a chat. They've been on the road for 2 and a half years crossing europe and asia to reach Japan and then flew to Mexico and cycled down here. Epic. In Manihuales I had some coffee and cake and in a few hours time caught up with Moni and Thorsten. We got wet together as the weather continued to throw water down on us. Eventually we stayed in a lovely Hospedaje in Villa Armengual. But first we watched a man off to work with a chainsaw over his shoulder and two giant bulls harnessed together.
In the morning it was still raining and I decided to put in a big day and reach Puyuhuapi. The first obstacle was a mountain pass on a narrow and steep gravel road. Through what looked like forests of giant rhubarb, I hairpinned my way upward and then, in a crazily dangerous way, spiralled my way down. I reached Puyuhuapi and set up in a lovely campsite with canopies for the rain and a wood burning stove to cook on (if you have infinite patience) or dry your socks.
Tips for getting started on your Big Ambition
I have been asked on a few ocassions how I managed to be able to take a year off to go cycling. I think the general priciples are probably the same for whatever big ambition you have. Here are a few things that I think we're helpful.
Save money. Open a savings account (a tax free ISA is a good place to start). Most things in life require a little money to grease the wheels. Set up a standing order for at least 10% of your salary each month.
Write down your idea and decide what steps you can take today to make it happen.
Read. Books, websites, forums are a good place to start researching your plans. Then try something small (like a short cycle tour) to see if you like it...
Don't tell anyone. Let the idea build up inside you and grow to the extent that you have to do it. I told people I was getting into cycle touring but I waited several years before telling everyone the South America plan. Almost till I'd bought the ticket and quit my job.
Accept that you will need to make sacrifices but don't make comprimises on your dreams.
Don't rely on luck. Don't listen to the naysayers.
Don't wait till everything is absolutely perfect. It never will be. Just go!! Get on with it.
Save money. Open a savings account (a tax free ISA is a good place to start). Most things in life require a little money to grease the wheels. Set up a standing order for at least 10% of your salary each month.
Write down your idea and decide what steps you can take today to make it happen.
Read. Books, websites, forums are a good place to start researching your plans. Then try something small (like a short cycle tour) to see if you like it...
Don't tell anyone. Let the idea build up inside you and grow to the extent that you have to do it. I told people I was getting into cycle touring but I waited several years before telling everyone the South America plan. Almost till I'd bought the ticket and quit my job.
Accept that you will need to make sacrifices but don't make comprimises on your dreams.
Don't rely on luck. Don't listen to the naysayers.
Don't wait till everything is absolutely perfect. It never will be. Just go!! Get on with it.
HAPPY CHRISTMAS!!!!
Brett and I woke up at 5:30am, in the pouring rain, to get to the ferry port at Chile Chico in time. We waited, getting soggier, whilst everyone else got on the ferry but we were made to wait till last. Cycle prejudice is rife. Inside the ferry was crazily crowded so we squeezed ourselves in to a cafeteria to eat breakfast of oats and yoghurt and coffee. I headed off from Puerto Ibanez with the rain still lashing down, selected a low gear and started climbing. I left Brett faffing about with getting warmer clothes out of his panniers.
I bumped into Monica and Thorsten again at the junction with Ruta 7, where the tarred road snakes its way up to a 1100m pass. We had a bit of lunch sat in a bus stop shelter and continued up the hairpins. Thorsten and I had a good chat and, once we got to the top, took some photos in the snow. (White xmas!) When Monica caught up we continued in sleet and then snow.
As we sped down hill the sky cleared and huge mountains loomed over the road. Fantastic views waited around each bend of forests, lakes and fast flowing rivers. Probably some of the most dramatic scenery of the trip so far. Another uphill bump and the scenery changed again turning into rolling green hills and farmland. Not unlike Hampshire believe it or not. However, a headwind picked up and, after I stopped for a few biscuits, M&T caught up. We camped in El Blanco beside the confluence of two rivers and ate pasta, cheese, chocolate, walnuts and cake (not all together (or necessarily in that order)).
Today, Christmas Eve, began with filthy wet weather and a biting cold headwind. The big mittens made their first outing of the trip. Fortunately it was only a short 33kms to Coyhaique, where I soon found Brett, the campsite and, later, Michael. So there is quite a crowd of us now. I think Monika plans to cook a traditional German xmas dinner tonight which should be nice. Crimbo Vino is bubbling much slower so fingers crossed it will be drinkable tomorrow. Planning to have Boxing Day here too (to recuperate).
Hope you all have a fantastic Christmas time and all the best for 2010!!! Stay tuned for my New Year's Resolutions...
The Boatman
I'm really enjoying listening to The Levellers at the moment. Especially I like the lyrics from The Boatman.
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a boatman
On the canals and the rivers free
No hasty words are spoken
My only law is the river breeze
That takes me to the open seas
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a boatman
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a rover
And if the road was not for me
Then I would choose another
Cross mountains and the valleys deep
Where I would take these weary feet
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a rover
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a boatman
On the canals and the rivers free
No hasty words are spoken
My only law is the river breeze
That takes me to the open seas
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a boatman
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a rover
And if the road was not for me
Then I would choose another
Cross mountains and the valleys deep
Where I would take these weary feet
If I could choose the life I please
Then I would be a rover
Hygine and Food
I'm reading a James Michner book called Journey that I picked up in a hostal. Its the story of an expedition during the gold rush to the Klondike River in northern Canada in 1897. Some pertinent advice is to be found near the bottom of page 120.
"We must change our socks at least twice a week and wash the worn ones in soap and hot water, else we'll develop a horrible fungus. It's not good to sleep in your clothes or to wear your underthings for more than a week. The latrine is to be kept well back from the cabin, and I want to find no one just stepping outside the door and pissing."
Ok, fair enough Jimbo, I will do my best.
Right, now on to food. I think its fair to say that I'll not be writing a recipe book any time soon. Nevertheless, I thought I'd give a taster of my culinary tendencies are on the bike. The key thing is to be able to store stuff for about a week or so. I have a few old plastic containers (the kind you get hot chocolate in) to keep things like oats, pasta and rice in. Plastic bags are ok but tend to split open and go everywhere.
Breakfast: I've got oats, powdered milk and sugar all mixed up in a container and I just pour some in my mug, add cold water, and shovel it in. It is considerably less faff and less mess than hot porridge and, if I ever felt the need, with the addition of raisins and nuts it is almost muesli. I like this and it sets you up for the day. If I have left the stove out I can make tea and pour in hot water into the oats which is also good.
Lunch: Bread with cheese, dulce de leche, jam or banana. Or with any combination of the above, or with all of it. Bread only lasts a few days before going stale so another option is to carry crackers which last a bit longer or flour. You can use flour to make chapatis (flat bread made from flour, salt and water) or "beer bread" (rises a bit, made with beer and flour). Good to cook these over a fire but its ok on a stove too.
Dinner: Pasta and stock cube. Or, if I fancy a change, rice and stock cube. Cheap and quick to cook. Occasionally, I will buy a few random tins, tuna, sardines, sweetcorn, peas, etc. Also I sometimes have things like olive oil, garlic, fresh ginger, herbs, curry powder, onion, salami, parmazan and the odd carrot. Powdered soups also good as an alternative to stock cubes. In towns I go wild and eat vegetables, red meat, eggs and yoghurt, as these don't travel well.
Snacks: Biscuits, chocolate and mints. I have to hide these from myself in the bottom of the panniers. Fruit and other healthy food doesn´t tend to travel well so I do a good deal of healthy eating outside shops. Apples and oranges are about the best for taking with.
Drinks: Water or black tea. In town, the occasional beer or wine. I'm also brewing some strawberry wine in time for Christmas. Its fizzing all the time now and I have to unscrew the cap to release the pressure every 10km. Following a tip from Brett, I activated the yeast in a little lukewarm water covered with a lid for 45 minutes and then added it to the strawberry juice with a spoonful of sugar.
"We must change our socks at least twice a week and wash the worn ones in soap and hot water, else we'll develop a horrible fungus. It's not good to sleep in your clothes or to wear your underthings for more than a week. The latrine is to be kept well back from the cabin, and I want to find no one just stepping outside the door and pissing."
Ok, fair enough Jimbo, I will do my best.
Right, now on to food. I think its fair to say that I'll not be writing a recipe book any time soon. Nevertheless, I thought I'd give a taster of my culinary tendencies are on the bike. The key thing is to be able to store stuff for about a week or so. I have a few old plastic containers (the kind you get hot chocolate in) to keep things like oats, pasta and rice in. Plastic bags are ok but tend to split open and go everywhere.
Breakfast: I've got oats, powdered milk and sugar all mixed up in a container and I just pour some in my mug, add cold water, and shovel it in. It is considerably less faff and less mess than hot porridge and, if I ever felt the need, with the addition of raisins and nuts it is almost muesli. I like this and it sets you up for the day. If I have left the stove out I can make tea and pour in hot water into the oats which is also good.
Lunch: Bread with cheese, dulce de leche, jam or banana. Or with any combination of the above, or with all of it. Bread only lasts a few days before going stale so another option is to carry crackers which last a bit longer or flour. You can use flour to make chapatis (flat bread made from flour, salt and water) or "beer bread" (rises a bit, made with beer and flour). Good to cook these over a fire but its ok on a stove too.
Dinner: Pasta and stock cube. Or, if I fancy a change, rice and stock cube. Cheap and quick to cook. Occasionally, I will buy a few random tins, tuna, sardines, sweetcorn, peas, etc. Also I sometimes have things like olive oil, garlic, fresh ginger, herbs, curry powder, onion, salami, parmazan and the odd carrot. Powdered soups also good as an alternative to stock cubes. In towns I go wild and eat vegetables, red meat, eggs and yoghurt, as these don't travel well.
Snacks: Biscuits, chocolate and mints. I have to hide these from myself in the bottom of the panniers. Fruit and other healthy food doesn´t tend to travel well so I do a good deal of healthy eating outside shops. Apples and oranges are about the best for taking with.
Drinks: Water or black tea. In town, the occasional beer or wine. I'm also brewing some strawberry wine in time for Christmas. Its fizzing all the time now and I have to unscrew the cap to release the pressure every 10km. Following a tip from Brett, I activated the yeast in a little lukewarm water covered with a lid for 45 minutes and then added it to the strawberry juice with a spoonful of sugar.
Cochrane to Chile Chico: Salchicha the dog
Rolled out of Cochrane and put in a shortish day to Puerto Bertrand. Rear tyre blewout and I had to bodge a fix with duct tape. There I met a dog that looked suprisingly similar to one I had seen in Cochrane. But I thought nothing of it. However, as I attempted to make chapatis and read my book the crazy little dog kept pestering me. She followed me when I moved up to a campsite and met up with Bret for a dinner containing both rice and pasta. Bret gave me his spare tyre which looks excellent. After a good dinner, good hot shower, good coffee I hit the sack. The dog slept next to my tent.In the morning, we breakfasted on porridge, coffee, leftovers and stupid jokes. Then I left before Brett as he was buggering around packing and he wanted to take it slow because he's picked up a little knee problem. As I rode out of town (I love saying that, it feels like I'm a cowboy!!) the dog followed me. I call her Salchicha - stupid name for stupid animal. I tried my best to persuade her to go away but she followed me for 65kms. She could run up hills faster than me and could catch up in a few minutes after I had nailed downhill. She had a great time chasing after other dogs, rabbits and birds. Eventually she decided that a campsite where there were people cooking on a bbq was a better chance of finding a generous human (I refused to feed her).
Today I met up with the German couple Monica and Thorsen who told me that Salchicha followed them from Cochrane to Puerto Bertrand. So in the last 3 days she has covered over 115kms!! Cycled on with M&T to Chile Chico a delightful little lake side town.
Only a 1100m pass between me and Christmas in Coyaique. Strawberry wine is coming along nicely fermenting all over the place. I have to unscrew the cap every hour to let the gas out. Will meet up with M&T and Brett. Not sure if Michael (nick named by Brett as "Iron Mike") will make it as he's still in Cochrane, but should be a good crowd anyway.
Tortel to Cochrane
At Tortel I loaded up on supplies. This involved knocking politely on what looked just like someones house, only I had spied shelves of food through the window, and then asking in my finest spanish for oats, chocolate and one of each flavour of biscuits. To get bread I had to go to another house and knock on the window. The woman inside delved into a huge sack and brought out 6 homemade rolls for 10p each.
Biscuits and chocolate have a short shelf-life in my panniers and were, of course, devoured before the end of the day. As is the usual fashion hereabouts the road was in a dire pot-holed, washboarded, gravely and hilly state and there was a head wind. Nevertheless the sun shone all day and as the light faded I found a nice spot off the road and under some trees to pitch the tent with a mountain veiw and a river nearby.
The next day I set off hoping to make it to Cochrane and when I passed a lovely cycling couple from Belgium they confirmed it was 65kms so I had a sporting chance of getting there before nightfall. Being about the time of day we decided to retire to the dining room for lunchoen together. By which I mean we sat on the dirt and ate cheese sandwiches.
After a good chat and feed I hit the road again but changed my plan when, 15kms outside Cochrane, I chanced upon Lago Ezmeralda. It was a beautiful spot so I decided to camp there and save a nights camping fee in Cochrane.
Cochrane is a little bigger than Villa O'Higgins, the internet a fraction faster, and it has a nice feel about it. There is a supermarket which is ideal if you need to pop out and pick up some cereal, milk, an outboard motor, a chainsaw and some plastic toys. Truely everything you might ever need is on sale.
Brett arrived and we bought some steaks to bbq. Also, led astray, I bought some lavadura and some strawberry juice with which I intend to concoct a "special" christmas vino. Wish me luck!
Biscuits and chocolate have a short shelf-life in my panniers and were, of course, devoured before the end of the day. As is the usual fashion hereabouts the road was in a dire pot-holed, washboarded, gravely and hilly state and there was a head wind. Nevertheless the sun shone all day and as the light faded I found a nice spot off the road and under some trees to pitch the tent with a mountain veiw and a river nearby.
The next day I set off hoping to make it to Cochrane and when I passed a lovely cycling couple from Belgium they confirmed it was 65kms so I had a sporting chance of getting there before nightfall. Being about the time of day we decided to retire to the dining room for lunchoen together. By which I mean we sat on the dirt and ate cheese sandwiches.
After a good chat and feed I hit the road again but changed my plan when, 15kms outside Cochrane, I chanced upon Lago Ezmeralda. It was a beautiful spot so I decided to camp there and save a nights camping fee in Cochrane.
Cochrane is a little bigger than Villa O'Higgins, the internet a fraction faster, and it has a nice feel about it. There is a supermarket which is ideal if you need to pop out and pick up some cereal, milk, an outboard motor, a chainsaw and some plastic toys. Truely everything you might ever need is on sale.
Brett arrived and we bought some steaks to bbq. Also, led astray, I bought some lavadura and some strawberry juice with which I intend to concoct a "special" christmas vino. Wish me luck!
Chalten to Caleta Tortel
I have been through quite a bit since I last posted but not come across a decent internet connection. Incredibly, it seems to be quite good in this tiny village, Caleta Tortel, in a seaside cove, made entirely of wooden houses with boardwalks and wooden staircases connecting them. extrodinary. Its been tough going getting here. From Chalten to Lago Desierto was a nice enough gravel track and on the way I met up with a South African guy called Bret who likes to eat and drink. After getting the ferry across Lago Desierto we camped with a Switz guy called Michael. The next day was a grueling one. If you wanted you could hire a horse for US$30 but us Hubbards are made of sterner stuff. The bike had to be pushed up steep and deeply rutted horse tracks for 10km before coming down a heavily potholed and steep gravel track.
The campsite was stunning, looking out over the turquoise waters of Lago O'Higgins and the surrounding mountains. We spent a day looking at it, reading books and tinkering with bikes while we waited for the ferry to turn up. The 4pm ferry arrived at 8pm and took us across Lago O'Higgins (bit Irish sounding,eh?). By the time we got to the other side, after watching a great sunset, it was dark and the 7km in to Villa O'Higgins had to be made by head torch.
I decided to get going after stocking up on supplies in VOH. Not many shops open as it was a Sunday and election weekend, and I couldn't face another day sat around scratching my bum. It was good to get moving on the bike, but hard work. The gravel road here is tough going with many potholes and washboard tracks, not to mention the hills and winds (they're normal now!). Scenery is stunning to the point that there is no need to listen to ipod, or even think much, you just look around and soak it all in.
El Calafate to El Chalten
After listening to a folk band in the campsite bar, and sampling (yet more) litres of Quilmes, our trusty pedal-powered hero woke fairly late and drank several cups of coffee and ate lots of toast and alfajor (yummy chocolate/ducle leche things). He then spent what seemed like an eternity trying to reorganise his panniers to be a) more convienient for commonly used items and b) with more weight at the front of the bike (who shall henceforth be known as Foxy Lady). Neither of these objectives were achieved and so the mission was abandoned in favour of cycling.
Weather was nice but reasonably windy. Lunch was ducle de leche and bananas on crackers and some turron.
Soon after Lago Argentina had slid behind a hill I came across a house in the middle of knowhere with "Bar" written on it. I headed in chased my barking dogs and it turned out to be a campsite too. So I gave in and ordered some food. On asking what he had on offer I was offered some piddling sandwiches and cakes, and then he offered a plate of beef steak. My eyes lit up and no more communication was required. Then dead cow was served with grated carrot and tomato and washed down by a black beer called Antares.
The next day was the sunniest and least windy day I have had yet so much so that my jacket stayed off all day and my arms got a touch of sunburn. I put in 120km to reach El Chalten just as it was getting dark. The whole day I was heading closer and closer to the mind boggling peaks of Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. I installed myself at the campsite and got a pizza. Disappointment ensued as I was unable to manage the entire pizza. The first time such a fate has befallen me. I think my stomach is getting smaller. Either that or it is the enormous quantity of cheese they use here.
Today the weather is much the same: balmy. I walked up to the Laguna Torre which is an excellent viewpoint for Cerro Torre, a crazily steep and magestic tower. I wore shorts (but long sleeves because of sun burned arms) and carried a very light pack with water, biscuits and not much else. Quite a relaxing walk through delightful countryside. I may have to stay here some time as my timing for the ferry to Villa O´Higgins is a little muddled. In fact I still can´t work out if it goes on Fridays or Saturdays such is the quality of the infomation. Well, tomorrow I plan to hike to the Mount Fitz Roy viewpoint and then we´ll see. If I miss the Friday/Saturday ferry there is one on Tuesday (or maybe its Wednesday). All a little confusing.
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